It is not necessary to attempt a description of Canton, with its pagodas, houses, shops, and European factories.  Let us direct our attention to the manners, customs, and peculiarities of its inhabitants.  As to dress and appearance, the costume of both sexes, among the lower orders, consists of full trousers and long upper garments, and is chiefly remarkable for its “excessive filth.”  Baths and ablutions have no charm for the Chinaman; he scorns to wear a shirt, and he holds by his trousers until they drop from his body.  The men’s upper garments reach a little below the knee, the women’s about half way down the calf.  They are made of nankeen, or dark blue, brown, or black silk.  During the cold season both men and women wear one summer garment over the other, keeping the whole together with a girdle; in the extreme heat, however, they suffer them to float as free as “Nora Creina’s robes” in Moore’s pretty ballad.

The men keep their heads shaved, with the exception of a small patch at the back, where the hair is carefully cultivated and plaited into a cue.  The thicker and longer this cue is, the prouder is its owner; false hair and black ribbon, therefore, are all deftly worked into it, with the result of forming an appendage which often reaches down to the ankles!  While at work the owner twists it round his neck, but on entering a room he lets it down again, as it would be contrary to all the laws of etiquette and courtesy for a person to make his appearance with his cue twisted up.  The women comb their hair entirely back from their forehead, and fasten it to the head in the most artistic plaits.  The process occupies a considerable time, but when the hair is once dressed it is not retouched for a whole week.  Both men and women frequently go about with heads uncovered; but sometimes they wear hats of thin bamboo, three feet in diameter.  These are not only an adequate protection against sun and rain, but are exceedingly durable.

Large numbers of Chinese live a kind of aquatic life, and make their home on board a river-boat.  The husband goes on shore to his work, and his wife meantime adds to the income of the family by ferrying persons from bank to bank, or letting out the boat to pleasure parties—­always reserving one half of its accommodation for herself and household.  Room is not very abundant, as the whole boat does not exceed twenty-five feet in length; but everywhere the greatest order and cleanliness are apparent, each separate plank being enthusiastically scrubbed and washed every morning.  It is worth notice how each inch of space is turned to the best advantage, room being made even for the lares and penates.  All the washing and cooking are done during the day; yet the pleasure party is never in the least degree inconvenienced.