Not a furlong farther, I came suddenly upon a house by the roadside, and a man coming out of the door with a light at the same moment enabled me to see “Vendeglo” on a small signboard.  Good-luck:  here, then, was an inn, where at least shelter was possible; and shelter was much to be desired, seeing that the rain was now a steady downpour.  On making inquiries, I found that I was already in Bueksad.  The peasant had played off a joke at my expense, or perhaps dealt me a Roland for an Oliver, for threatening to shoot his dog.  A paprika handl was soon prepared for me.  In all parts of the country where travellers are possible, the invariable reply to a demand for something to eat is the query, “Would the gentleman like paprika handl?” and he had better like it, for his chances are small of getting anything else.  While I was seeing after my horse, the woman of the inn caught a miserable chicken, which I am sure could have had nothing to regret in this life; and in a marvellously short time the bird was stewed in red pepper, and called paprika handl.

I was aware that Count M——­ owned a good deal of property in the neighbourhood of Bueksad, and as I had a letter of introduction to his bailiff, I set off the next morning to find him.  My object in coming to this particular part of the country was principally to explore that curious place Mount Buedos, mentioned by Dr Daubeny and others.  I wanted to see for myself what amount of sulphur deposits were really to be found there.  Count M——­’s bailiff was very ready to be obliging, and he provided me with a guide, and further provided the guide with a horse, so that I had no difficulty in arranging an expedition to the mount of evil smell.

Having arranged the commissariat as usual, I started one fine morning with my guide.  We rode for about two hours through a forest of majestic beech-trees, and then came almost suddenly, without any preparation, upon a beautiful mountain lake, called St Anna’s Lake.  It lies in a hollow; the hills around, forming cup-like sides, are clothed with thick woods down to its very edge.  Looking down from above, I saw the green reflection of the foliage penetrating the pellucid water till it met the other heaven reflected below.  The effect was very singular, and gave one the idea of a lovely bit of world and sky turned upside down; it produced, moreover, a sort of fascination, as if one must dive down into its luring depths.  No human sight or sound disturbed the weird beauty of this lonely spot.  I longed at last to break the oppressive silence, and I fired off my revolver.  This brought down a perfect volley of echoes, and at the same time, from the highest crags, out flew some half-dozen vultures; they wheeled round for a few moments, then disappeared behind the nearest crest of wood.