Wishing to see some of the neighbouring villages, I set off one fine day on a walking expedition.  I chose Sunday, because on that day one can see to best advantage the costume of the peasants.  Hammersdorf is a pretty enough village, “fair with orchard lawns,” but not so charming as Heltau, which, standing on high ground, commands an extensive view of the whole plain, with the old “Red Town” in the foreground of the picture.  The church in this village is a very fine specimen of the fortified churches, which are a unique feature of the Transylvanian border-land.  The origin of this form of architecture is very obvious; it was necessary to have a defence against the incursions of the Tartars and Turks, who for centuries troubled the peace of this fair land.  In every village of the Saxons in the south and east of Transylvania the church is also a fortified place, fitted to maintain a siege if necessary.  The construction of these buildings varies according to circumstances:  the general character is that the sacred edifice is surrounded, or forms part of a strong wall with its watch-towers; not unfrequently a second and even a third wall surround the place.  In every case a considerable space of ground is enclosed around the church, sufficient to provide accommodation for the villagers; in fact every family with a house outside had a corresponding hut within the fortified walls.  Here, too, was a granary, and some of the larger places had also their school-tower attached to the church.  It happened not unfrequently that the villagers were obliged to remain for some weeks in their sanctuary.

Heltau is an industrious little place.  Here is manufactured the peculiar white frieze so much worn by the Wallacks.  Nearly every house has its loom, but I was told the trade is less flourishing than formerly.  The woollen-cloth manufacturers of Transylvania have suffered very much from the introduction of foreign goods; but, on the other hand, if they would bestir themselves they might enormously increase their exports.  Heltau is a market-place, and reserves many old privileges very jealously.  Its inhabitants were often in dispute with the burghers of Herrmannstadt, and on one occasion they had the audacity, in rebuilding their church-tower, to place four turrets upon it.  Their neighbours regarded this with great indignation, for are not four turrets the sign and symbol of civic authority?  The burghers of Herrmannstadt hereupon obliged the men of Heltau to sign a bond, saying that “they were but humble villagers,” and promising to treat their haughty neighbours with all due “honour, fear, and friendship.”