We now gained the other side of the mountain-chain, passing the remains of an old Turkish camp, the outlines of which were quite visible.  From this point there is a magnificent view, interminable forests to the eastward clothing the deep ravines that score the hillsides.  The accidents of light and shade were particularly happy on this occasion, bringing out various details in the picture in a very striking manner.  As a general rule, there is no time so unpropitious for scenic effect as noonday.

We passed from the grassy Alpen down into the thick of the forest, losing very soon any glimpse of the distant view, or any help from conspicuous landmarks.  It was a labyrinth of trees, with tracks crossing each other in a most perplexing manner.  I could not have got on without a guide.

When the evening approached I thought it was time to look out for quarters for the night.  Our first necessity was water, but we went on and on without coming upon a stream.  It was provoking, for we had passed so many springs and rivulets earlier in the day, and now darkness threatened to wrap us round with the mantle of night before we had arranged our bivouac.  When the sun sets in the East, it is like turning off the gas; you are left in darkness suddenly, without any intervening twilight.  As a fact one knows this perfectly well; but habit is stronger than reason, and day after day I went on being perplexed, and often unready for the “early-closing” system.

“Water we must have,” said I to the Wallack.  “Let us strike off from the direct route and follow the lead of this valley, we shall find water in the bottom for a certainty.”

We hurried forward, leading our horses through the thick undercover, always diving deeper into the ravine.  At length I discovered a trickling amongst the stones, and a little farther on we came upon a grassy spot beneath some enormous pine-trees.  It was an ideal place for a bivouac!

When the horses had been carefully picketed, we proceeded to make a fire and cook our supper, which consisted of gipsy-meat and tea.

The meal finished to my perfect satisfaction, (how good everything tastes under such circumstances!) I then stretched myself on a sloping bank overspread by a thick covering of dry needle-wood, as the Germans call the leaves of the fir-tree.  How soft and clean it felt, and how sweet the aromatic perfume that pervaded the whole place!  Lighting my pipe, I gave myself up to the perfect enjoyment of repose amidst this romantic scene.  The Wallack, covered by his fur bunda, was already asleep, and save the bubbling of the water in the little stream, and the crackling of the fire, there was absolutely not a sound or a breath.  Through the tasselled pine branches, festooned with streamers of grey moss, I could see the stars shining in the blue depths of ether.  One can realise in these regions the intense depth of the heavens when seen at night; we never get the same effect in our “weeping skies.”