“You see, nobody suffers but the Government,” says the man of easy conscience, not seeing that, after all, the good condition of the roads concerns themselves more than the officials in the capital.

In many things the Hungarians are like children, and they have not yet grown out of the idea that it is patriotic to be unruly.  The fact is, the Central Government was so long in the hands of the Vienna Cabinet, who were obnoxious in the highest degree to the Hungarians, that the latter cannot get the habit of antagonism out of their minds, though the reconciliation carried through by Deak in 1867 entirely restored self-government to Hungary.  “What do we want with money?” said a gentleman of the old school.  “Money is only useful for paying taxes, and if we have not got it for that purpose, never mind!”

On leaving Petroseny the route I proposed to myself was to take the bridle-path over the mountains to Herrmannstadt.  But in following this out, I omitted to visit the Castle of Hunyad—­a great mistake, for castles are rare in this part of Europe, and the romantic and singular position of Schloss Hunyad renders it quite unique in a way.  It is situated, I am told, on a lofty spur of rock, washed on three sides by two rivers which unite at its base, a draw-bridge connecting the building with a fortified eminence high above the stream.

The place is associated with the name of Hungary’s greatest hero, John Hunyadi, who was born near by, and who subsequently built the castle.  The story of his birth, which took place somewhere about 1400, is romantic enough.  His mother was said to be a beautiful Wallack girl called Elizabeth Marsinai, who was beloved by King Sigismund.  When he left her he gave her his signet ring, which she was to bring to him in Buda if she gave birth to a son.

Showing all proper respect to the wishes of its parents, a child of the “male persuasion” made its appearance in due course of time; and the joyful mother, accompanied by her brother, set off walking to Buda, with the small boy and the ring for credentials.  When resting by the way in a forest the child began playing with the ring, and a jackdaw, who in all ancient story has a weakness for this sort of ornament, pounced upon the shining jewel and carried it off to a tree.  The brother with commendable quickness took up his bow and shot the bird; thus the ring was recovered, and the story duly related to the king, who evolved out of the incident a prophetic omen of the boy’s future greatness.  His majesty had the child brought up at the Court, and bestowed upon him the town of Hunyad and sixty surrounding villages.