We turned reluctantly from the grand panorama, but we began to feel the distressing effects of thirst.  We had failed to procure any sheep’s milk, but the postmaster declared that when we got back to our camping-place we should be able to find some fresh water.  Arrived at this pleasant spot, we rested under the beech-trees, and sent off two of the Serbs to look for water.  After waiting some time one of them brought us some, but it was from a stagnant pool, alive with animalculae, quite unfit to drink.  I never remember suffering so much from thirst.  The heat was excessive, but happily before reaching the Danube we found a delicious spring gushing out from the limestone rock.  It was an indescribable refreshment for thirsty souls.  We further regaled ourselves with a good meal at the village on the Hungarian side of the Danube, after crossing again in the “dug-out.”

The pope of the village entered into conversation with us, and finding I was a stranger he ordered a Wallack dance for our amusement.  The costumes of the women were picturesque, but the dance itself was a slow affair, very unlike the lively czardas of the Magyar peasant.

CHAPTER IX.

A hunting expedition proposed—­Drive from Uibanya to Orsova—­Oriental aspect of the market-place—­Cserna Valley—­Hercules-Bad, Mehadia—­Post-office mistakes—­Drive to Karansebes—­Rough customers en route—­Lawlessness—­Fair at Karansebes—­Podolian cattle—­Ferocious dogs.

During my stay at Uibanya the Foerstmeister (head of the forest department) from Karansebes came over on business, and he told us there was to be a shooting expedition on the Alps in his district.  He further invited us to take part in it, and I gladly accepted, as it fitted in very well indeed with my plans.  Karansebes is directly on the route to Transylvania, whither I was bound.  The district we were to shoot over is the rocky border-land between Hungary and Roumania.  My friend F——­agreed to accompany me, and on our way we proposed visiting the celebrated baths of Mehadia.  Early one morning we started for Orsova, a drive of thirty miles, splendid scenery all the way.  The latter part of our journey was by the side of the Danube, on the Szechenyi road again.

We passed a number of hay-ricks in trees, which I have before described.  Some of them were built up in the form of an inverted cone.  The luxuriance of the foliage is very striking.  Nothing can exceed the beauty of the wild vines so frequent on the banks of the Danube.  They fall in graceful festoons from the trees; sometimes they reach across to the trees on the other side of the road, forming a complete arch of greenery.  In the autumn the vine leaves turn to a glowing red, like the Virginian creeper, and then the effect of this mass of rich colouring is indeed glorious.  Meanwhile gay butterflies of rare form fluttered about among the trailing vines, and bright green lizards darted in and out of the stone wall.  Then an eagle or a vulture would swoop down from the heights, and settle himself on some pinnacle of rock, where he remained, motionless as a stuffed bird.