When I started with the guide I had hired from Svenica, there was still a good half-hour before sunset.  We commenced at once climbing a very steep and stony path, where I had to lead my horse; indeed at times it was very much like getting my horse over the top of a high-pitched roof, if such an exploit were possible.  We shortly lost all trace of a path.  I turned several times to look at the fine glimpses of the Danube far below us.  Arriving at a fringe of wood, I was not a little surprised to see emerge from thence a sturdy Wallack, carrying the usual long staff, armed with an axe at one end.  I say surprised, because he at once joined in with us, and though I had not seen him during our climb, I had my strong suspicions that he had followed us all the way.  My guide spoke a little German, and I demanded of him in a sharp tone what the other fellow meant by joining us.  My guide answered that he was afraid to return alone, for that presently we should get into “the forest, where it would be as dark as a cave,” and he had asked the other man to come with us from Svenica.  As according to his own account he had traversed the forest for nineteen years, I thought he might very well have gone back alone; besides, if there was any truth in what he said, why should he have made a mystery about his companion till we were some way on our journey?

We were now on the outskirts of a thick forest, the sun had set in great beauty, but every hue of colour had now faded from “the trailing clouds of glory;” faded, indeed, so quickly that before the fact of twilight could be realised, it was already night!  It was literally dark as a cave when we penetrated into the forest.  My guide had a lantern, which he lighted; for it would, indeed, have been impossible to make any progress without the light.  Though we were again in a path, the way was frequently barred by the trunks of fallen trees.  We were still ascending, occasionally coming upon a steep rough bit, difficult for the horse on account of the loose stones.  I think we must have looked very much like a party of smugglers.  The ex-forester walked first, swinging his lantern as he moved; then came the Wallack volunteer, stumping along with axe-headed staff.  He wanted very much to fall into the rear, but this I would not allow, and in a resolute tone ordered him forward.  I followed with my little grey horse close upon the heels of my companions, keeping all the time a keen and suspicious eye upon their movements.  They spoke together occasionally, but I was profoundly ignorant of what they said, not understanding a word of Wallachian.

Where it was anyhow possible we went at a good pace, but the underwood and fallen trees hindered us a good deal.  My guide told me to look out for wolves.  These forests are said to be full of them in summer, and he added that a lot of pigs belonging to a neighbour of his had been carried off by the wolves only the night before.  I took this opportunity of telling him that I was a dead shot, pointing to my revolver, which was handy; adding a piece of information that I made much of, namely, that I was expected at Uibanya.