The works of such men as Darwin, Lyell, and Tyndall are read.  I remember seeing these, and many other leading authors, in a bookseller’s shop in Klausenburg.  It is true this last-named place is the capital—­viz., the Magyar capital—­of Transylvania, but in most respects it is a mere provincial town.

A friend and myself happened to be lunching one day in the principal inn—­it was in the salle a manger—­and we were talking together in English.  Presently I noticed a remarkably little man at the next table, who looked towards us several times; finally he got up from his chair, or rather I should say got down, and making a sign to us equivalent to touching his hat, he said, “Gentlemen, I am an Englishman; I thought it right to tell you in case you should think there was no one present who understood what you were talking!” It was very civil of the little fellow, for we were talking rather unguardedly about some well-known personages.  I then asked him how he came to be in this part of the world, and he told me he was a jockey, and had been over several times to ride at the Klausenburg races; but he added he was very sorry that they always took place on a Sunday!  There is certainly no “bitter observance of the Sabbath” in Hungary generally.  Offices are open, and business is conducted as usual—­certainly in the morning.

There is some good coursing in the neighbourhood of Klausenburg, which is kept up closely on the pattern of English sport.  I had two or three good runs with the harriers, and on one occasion got a spill that was a close shave of breaking my neck.  Count T——­ had given me a mount.  The horse was all right, but not knowing the nature of the country, I was not aware that the ground drops suddenly in many places.  Coming to something of this kind without preparation, the horse threw me, and I was pitched down an embankment upwards of twelve feet in depth.  Several people who saw the mishap thought it was all up with me, but, curiously enough, I was absolutely unhurt.  A pull at my flask set me all right, and I walked back the five miles to Klausenburg.  The horse unfortunately galloped away, and was not brought back till the next day, and then minus his saddle; however, it was recovered subsequently.

In the present scare about hydrophobia the following is worth notice.  One day when walking in the principal street of Klausenburg I heard a great barking amongst the dogs, of which there were some dozen following a closed van.  On inquiry I found that once a-week the authorities send round to see if there are any dogs at large without the regulation tax-collar.  If any such vagabonds are found they are consigned to the covered cart, and are forthwith shot.  This excellent arrangement has the effect of keeping down the number of dogs; besides, there is the safeguard attendant upon the responsibility of ownership.  The funny part of the matter is that the tax-paying dogs are not the least alarmed at the appearance of the whipper-in, but join with great show of public spirit in denouncing the collarless vagrants.