At Toelgyes there is a considerable trade with Moldavia in wood.  Quite a fresh human interest was imparted to the scene by this industry.  By the side of the stream small rafts were in course of construction, and the trunks of the trees were being placed in position to make the descent of the stream.  The woodman’s axe was heard in the forest, and many a picturesque hut or group of huts were to be seen by the roadside, where the woodmen and their families live, to be near their work.  The labour of getting the timber along these tortuous mountain streams is very great.  A ready market is found at Galatz, where a great deal of this wood is sent.

I remained the night at Toelgyes.  The whole place was in a state of excitement about brigands; every one had some fresh rumour to help swell the general panic.  A company of soldiers were kept constantly patrolling the roads in the neighbourhood.  I should say they were pretty safe not to encounter the robbers, who are always well informed under those circumstances.

In studying my pocket-map, I found that there was clearly a short cut over the mountains to St Miklos.  On inquiry I extracted the confirmation of the fact with difficulty, and I had still more difficulty in inducing anybody to go with me as a guide.  At length I secured the services of a fellow who was willing to go for a tolerably substantial “consideration.”  I was afraid to work my way entirely by the map, for roads are apt to be vague in these parts.  Ten chances to one whether you know a road when you see it; it might be a green sward, or the rubbly dry bed of a mountain torrent, or a cattle-track; it may lead somewhere or nowhere.  Unassisted you may wander all manner of ways.

I made my start very early in the morning, for I had a long way to go, and my guide was on foot; there was not much use in being mounted, considering the pace that the roughness of the road forced us to take.  Before leaving Toelgyes I had a row with the innkeeper.  He made a most exorbitant demand upon me, at least three times over what was properly due.  I told him at once that I declined to pay the full amount he asked.  I knew perfectly well what the charge ought to be, and I said I should pay that and no more.  Hereupon he got very angry, and informed me that he should not saddle my horse or let me go till I had paid him in full.  I immediately went into the stable and saddled the horse myself; I then put down on the window-seat the money which I considered was due to him, giving a fair and liberal margin, but I was not going to be “done” because I was a foreigner.  I ordered my guide to proceed, and I myself quickly rode out of the place.  The innkeeper worked himself up into a tremendous rage, and declared he would have me back, or at least he would have his cold meat and bread back that I had ordered for the journey.  I gave my horse the rein, and left the fellow uttering his blessings both loud and deep.