The baths of Borsek belong to two different parishes, and they are by no means agreed as to the management.  Some years ago the principal spring was struck by lightning and entirely lost for a time, but after much digging it was found again.  The situation of Borsek is extremely romantic, and in the height of summer it must be very delightful; but in summer only—­let no one follow my example and go there out of season.  Of course the place is surrounded by magnificent forests, but it is a crying shame to see how they have been treated.  In every direction there is evidence of the ravages of fire.  You may see in a morning’s walk the blackened stems of thousands of trees, the results of Wallack incendiarism.  If the Wallacks go on destroying the forests in this way, they will end in injuring the value of the place as a health resort; for the efficacy of the perfumed air of the pine-woods is well known, especially for all nervous diseases.

The houses are badly built at Borsek, and the arrangements for comfort are very incomplete.  Most of the habitations appear to have been run up with green wood; the result may be pleasant and airy in summer, when the balmy breeze comes in from cracks in the doors and window-frames, but except in great heat, a perforated house is a mistake.  People have to bring their own servants and other effects.  I should say a portable stove would not be a bad item amongst the luggage.

The Borsek waters are very much drunk throughout Hungary, especially mixed with wine.  Everywhere I noticed that eight people out of ten would take water with their wine at meals.  In the district round there is splendid pasturage for cattle.  Large numbers of cattle fed in these parts are now sent to Buda-Pest and Vienna.  The serious drawback to Borsek is its great distance from a railway.  The nearest station is Maros Vasarhely, which is nearly ninety miles away.  The drive between the two places is very fine—­that is, the scenery is fine, but the road itself is execrable.  A telegraph wire connects Borsek with the outside world, but the post only comes twice a-week.

[Footnote 21:  The waters of Borsek are much taken as an “after-cure.”]

CHAPTER XXVI.

Moldavian frontier—­Toelgyes—­Excitement about robbers—­Attempt at extortion—­A ride over the mountains—­Return to St Miklos.

Instead of going back to St Miklos by the same route, I resolved to diverge a little if the weather permitted.  I wanted to visit Toelgyes, a village on the frontier of Moldavia, which is said to be very pretty.  The weather decidedly improved, so I rode off in that direction.  The road, owing to the late rains, was in a dreadful state.  All the mountain summits were covered with fresh snow; it was a lovely sight.  The dazzling whiteness of these peaks rising above the zone of dark fir-trees was singularly striking and beautiful.  The effect of sunshine was exhilarating in the highest degree, and the contrast with my recent experience gave it a keener relish.