I went over these works, and gave particular attention to the refinery.  Some of the processes for collecting the metal are ingeniously simple and effective.  The copper-ore is remarkably pure, being, it is said, free from arsenic and antimony.  The concern ought to pay, for the copper is so well esteemed that it obtains the best price in the market.

After inspecting the place, we went into the inn to have some supper, and while there, several miners came in.  I had heard that they were renowned for their mining songs down in these parts, so I made friends with the men and begged them to sing.  After a little persuasion and a refilling of glasses they began.

The music of their songs was very mournful, and the words equally so, descriptive of the dangers the poor miner had to encounter in searching for ore in the gloomy depths of the earth.  I believe my companion, the postmaster, was very puzzled to understand what could interest me in these rough miners.  The scene was exceedingly picturesque; for some six or eight of these stalwart fellows, with skin and clothes reddened by the earth, sat by a long table, each with his flask of wine before him, while the flicker of an oil-lamp threw its yellow light over the group.  One of the men spoke German, and with him I talked.  He had elicited from me the fact of my being an Englishman, whereupon he asked me a variety of questions about our mines and our forests.  Finally he inquired whether our bears were as large as theirs.  When I told him we had none he could not credit it, saying, “But you must have bears on the frontier?” When I explained that we lived upon an island he seemed much surprised.  I saw that his natural politeness prevented his saying what was in his mind, but it was evident he thought that if the English lived in an island they could not be such a great people after all.

Not wishing to put my host to expense, more especially as the expedition was undertaken solely for my benefit and at my suggestion, I paid the score at the Balanbanya Inn without saying anything.  I was very vexed to find, however, that by doing so I had offended my companion very much.  He reminded me that I was a stranger in Szeklerland and his guest, and it was contrary to all his ideas of hospitality that I should be the paymaster.  Instead of starting homewards, as we were ready to do, he ordered more wine and some sardines, being the greatest delicacy the house afforded.  I was obliged to make a show of partaking of something more, though I had amply supped.  For these extras of course my friend paid, but he was only half appeased, and was never quite the same again.