Having grown to know him fairly well, I fished for an invitation to visit his home.  I wanted to see where this gentlemanly backwoodsman spent the days which were not lived on the road.

I carried a rug with me, and slept for the first night under the open sky.  Have you ever seen a southern sky when it was studded with stars?  If not, there’s something yet before you.  There’s no whiteness or coldness about these stars, they are pure gold, and warm with light.

My schooner-man slept in his wagon, covered with an old quilt.  His mules were picketed close by, the dog curled himself beside his master, each getting warmth from the other.

We cooked supper and breakfast over the coals—­chickens broiled for our evening meal, ham and eggs for the morning.  We gave the dog the bones and the crusts.  I took bread with me, for Cousin Patty warned me that I must not depend upon my squire for food.  Cooking among these people is a lost art.  Cousin Patty believes that the regeneration of the poor whites of the South will be accomplished through the women.  “When they learn to cook,” she says, “the men won’t need whiskey.  When the whiskey goes, they’ll respect the law.”

A mile before we reached the end of our journey, we were met by the children of my schooner-squire.  Five of them—­two boys, two girls, and a baby in the arms of the oldest girl.  They all had the gentle quiet and ease of the father—­but they were unkempt little creatures, uncombed, unwashed, in sad-colored clothes.  That’s the difference between the negro and the white man of this region.  The negro is cheerful, debonair, he sings, he dances, and he wears all the colors of the rainbow.  An old black woman who carries home my wash wore the other day a purple petticoat with a scarlet skirt looped above it, an old green sweater, and, tied over her head, a pink wool shawl.  Against the neutral background of sandy hill she was a delight to the eye.  The whites on the other hand seem like little animals, who have taken on the color of the landscape that they may be hidden.

But to go back to my sad children.  It seemed to me that in them I was seeing the South with new eyes, perhaps because I have been away just long enough to get the proper perspective.  And my life has been, you see, lived in the Southern cities, where one touches rarely the primitive.

The older boys are, perhaps, ten and twelve, blue-eyed and tow-headed.  I saw few signs of affection or intelligence.  They did not kiss their father when he came, except the small girl, who ran to him and was hugged; the others seemed to practice a sort of incipient stoicism, as if they were too old, too settled, for demonstration.

The mother, as we entered, was like her children.  None of them has the initiative or the energy of the man.  They are subdued by the changeless conditions of their environment; his one adventure of the week keeps him alert and alive.