and my companions began to employ themselves in measuring
the circumference of one of the Doric columns, when
they suddenly called my attention to a stranger who
was sitting on a camp-stool behind it. The appearance
of any person in this place at this time was sufficiently
remarkable, but the man who was before us from his
dress and appearance would have been remarkable anywhere.
He was employed in writing in a memorandum book when
we first saw him, but he immediately rose and saluted
us by bending the head slightly though gracefully;
and this enabled me to see distinctly his person and
dress. He was rather above the middle stature,
slender, but with well-turned limbs; his countenance
was remarkably intelligent, his eye hazel but full
and strong, his front was smooth and unwrinkled, and
but for some grey hairs, which appeared silvering
his brown and curly locks, he might have been supposed
to have hardly reached the middle age; his nose was
aquiline, the expression of the lower part of his
countenance remarkably sweet, and when he spoke to
our guide, which he did with uncommon fluency in the
Neapolitan dialect, I thought I had never heard a
more agreeable voice, sonorous yet gentle and silver-sounded.
His dress was very peculiar, almost like that of an
ecclesiastic, but coarse and light; and there was a
large soiled white hat on the ground beside him, on
which was fastened a pilgrim’s cockle shell,
and there was suspended round his neck a long antique
blue enamelled phial, like those found in the Greek
tombs, and it was attached to a rosary of coarse beads.
He took up his hat, and appeared to be retiring to
another part of the building, when I apologised for
the interruption we had given to his studies, begged
him to resume them, and assured him that our stay
in the building would be only momentary, for I saw
that there was a cloud over the sun, the brightness
of which was the cause of our retiring. I spoke
in Italian; he replied in English, observing that
he supposed the fear of contracting the malaria fever
had induced us to seek the shelter of the shade:
but it is too early in the season to have much reasonable
fear of this insidious enemy; yet, he added, this
bottle which you may have observed here at my breast,
I carry about with me, as a supposed preventive of
the effects of malaria, and as far as my experience,
a very limited one, however, has gone, it is effectual.
I ventured to ask him what the bottle might contain,
as such a benefit ought to be made known to the world.
He replied, “It is a mixture which slowly produces
the substance called by chemists chlorine, which is
well known to be generally destructive to contagious
matters; and a friend of mine who has lived for many
years in Italy, and who has made a number of experiments
with it, by exposing himself to the danger of fever
in the worst seasons and in the worst places, believes
that it is a secure preventive. I am not convinced
of this; but it can do no harm; and in waiting for