paroquets and glossy crows, while here and there we could see a Bird of Paradise drooping its smart tail-feathers amid the foliage.  A little further, and deep in the forest the ear caught the busy tap-tap of the woodpecker, the snap of the toucan’s beak, or far away the deep trumpeting of the elephant.  Once we startled a leopard that gazed a moment at us with flaming eyes, and then was gone with a wild bound into the thicket.  From tree to tree trailed hosts of gorgeous creepers, blossoming in orange, white and crimson, or wreathing round some hapless monarch of the forest and strangling it with their rank growth.  Still we climbed.

“The bridle-track now skirted a torrent, now wound dizzily round the edge of a stupendous cliff, and again plunged into obscurity.  Here and there the ruins of some ancient and abandoned shrine confronted us, its graceful columns entwined and matted with vegetation; or, again, where the forest broke off and allowed our eyes to sweep over the far prospect, the guides would point to the place where stood, hardly to be descried, the relics of some dead city, desolate and shrined in desolation.  Even I, who knew nothing of the past glories of Ceylon, could not help being possessed with melancholy thoughts as I passed now a mass of deserted masonry, now a broken column, the sole witnesses of generations gone for ever.  Some were very richly carved, but Nature’s tracery was rapidly blotting out the handiwork of man, the twining convolvulus usurping the glories of the patient chisel.  Still up we climbed, where hosts of chattering monkeys swung from branch to branch, or poised screaming overhead, or a frightened serpent rose with hissing mouth, and then glided in a flash back through the undergrowth.  One, that seemed to me of a pure silver-white, started almost from under my feet, and darted away before I could recover myself.  We hardly spoke; the vastness of Nature hushed our tongues.  It seemed presumption to raise my gun against any of the inhabitants of this spot where man seemed so mean, so strangely out of place.  Once I paused to cut back with my knife the creepers that hid in inextricable tangle a solitary and exquisitely carved archway.  But the archway led nowhere, its god and temple alike had perished, and already the plants have begun their tireless work again.

“Between the stretches of wilderness our road often led us across rushing streams, difficult to ford at this season, or up rocky ravines, that shut in with their towering walls all but a patch of blue overhead.  Emerging from these we would find ourselves on naked ledges where the sun’s rays beat until the air seemed that of an oven.  At such spots the plain below spread itself out as a crumpled chart, whilst always above us, domed in the blue of a sapphire-stone, towered the goal of our hopes, serene and relentless.  But such places were not many.  More often a threatening cliff faced us, or an endless slope closed in the view, only to give way to another and yet another as we climbed their weary length.