I got a note from M. Mounier yesterday, inviting me to go and stay at El-Moutaneh, Halim Pasha’s great estate, near Edfoo, and offering to send his dahabieh for me.  I certainly will go as soon as the weather is decidedly hot.  It is now very warm and pleasant.  If I find Thebes too hot as summer advances I must drop down and return to Cairo, or try Suez, which I hear is excellent in summer—­bracing desert air.  But it is very tempting to stay here—­a splendid cool house, food extremely cheap; about 1 pound a week for three of us for fish, bread, butter, meat, milk, eggs and vegetables; all grocery, of course, I brought with me; no trouble, rest and civil neighbours.  I feel very disinclined to move unless I am baked out, and it takes a good deal to bake me.  The only fear is the Khamaseen wind.  I do not feel very well.  I don’t ail anything in particular; blood-spitting frequent, but very slight; much less cough; but I am so weak and good for nothing.  I seldom feel able to go out or do more than sit in the balcony on one side or other of the house.  I have no donkey here, the hired ones are so very bad and so dear; but I have written Mounier to try and get me one at El-Moutaneh and send it down in one of Halim Pasha’s corn-boats.  There is no comfort like a donkey always ready.  If I have to send for Mustapha’s horse, I feel lazy and fancy it is too much trouble unless I can go just when I want.

I have received a letter from Alexandria of January 8.  What dreadful weather!  We felt the ghost of it here in our three weeks of cold.  Sometimes I feel as if I must go back to you all coute qui coute, but I know it would be no use to try it in the summer.  I long for more news of you and my chicks.

February 8, 1864:  February 8, 1864

To Mrs. Ross.  LUXOR, Tuesday, February 8, 1864.

Dearest Child,

I got your letter No. 3 about a week ago, and two others before it.  I have been very lazy in writing, for it has been very cold (for Thebes), and I have been very seedy—­no severe attack, but no strength at all.  The last three or four days the weather has been warm, and I am beginning to feel better.  I send this to Cairo by a clever, pleasant Mme. de Beaulaincourt, a daughter of Marechal Castellane, who is here in one of the Pasha’s steamers.  She will call on you when she goes to Alexandria.  I have been learning to write Arabic, and know my letters—­no trifle, I assure you.  My Sheykh is a perfect darling—­the most graceful, high-bred young creature, and a Seyyid.  These Saeedees are much nicer than the Lower Egypt people.  They have good Arab blood in their veins, keep pedigrees, and are more manly and independent, and more liberal in religion.