children, and not to let her marry a stranger.  So you see that polygamy is not always sensual indulgence, and a man may practise greater self-sacrifice so than by talking sentiment about deceased wives’ sisters.  Hassan has 3 pounds a month, and two wives come expensive.  I said, laughing, to Omar as we left him, that I did not think the two wives sounded very comfortable.  ’Oh no! not comfortable at all for the man, but he take care of the women, that’s what is proper—­that is the good Mussulman.’

I shall have the company of a Turkish Effendi on my voyage—­a Commissioner of Inland Revenue, in fact, going to look after the tax-gatherers in the Saeed.  I wonder whether he will be civil.  Sally is gone with some English servants out to the Virgin’s tree, the great picnic frolic of Cairene Christians, and, indeed, of Muslimeen also at some seasons.  Omar is gone to a Khatmeh—­a reading of the Koran—­at Hassan the donkey-boy’s house.  I was asked, but am afraid of the night air.  A good deal of religious celebration goes on now, the middle of the month of Regeb, six weeks before Ramadan.  I rather dread Ramadan as Omar is sure to be faint and ill, and everybody else cross during the first five days or so; then their stomachs get into training.  The new passenger-steamers have been promised ever since the 6th, and will not now go till after the races—­6th or 7th of next month.  Fancy the Cairo races!  It is growing dreadfully Cockney here, I must go to Timbuctoo:  and we are to have a railway to Mecca, and take return tickets for the Haj from all parts of the world.

December 27, 1863:  Mrs. Austin

To Mrs. Austin.  BOULAK, ON BOARD A RIVER STEAM-BOAT, December 27, 1863.

Dearest Mutter,

After infinite delays and worries, we are at last on board, and shall sail to-morrow morning.  After all was comfortably settled, Ismail Pasha sent for all the steamers up to Rhoda, near Minieh, and at the same time ordered a Turkish General to come up instantly somehow.  So Latif Pasha, the head of the steamers, had to turn me out of the best cabin, and if I had not come myself, and taken rather forcible possession of the forecastle cabin, the servants of the Turkish General would not have allowed Omar to embark the baggage.  He had been waiting all the morning in despair on the bank; but at four I arrived, and ordered the hammals to carry the goods into the forecabin, and walked on board myself, where the Arab captain pantomimically placed me in his right eye and on the top of his head.  Once installed, this has become a hareem, and I may defy the Turkish Effendi with success.  I have got a good-sized cabin with good, clean divans round three sides for Sally and myself.  Omar will sleep on deck and cook where he can.  A poor Turkish lady is to inhabit a sort of dusthole by the side of my cabin; if she seems decent, I will entertain