in which every Englishman I have seen scorns the Eastern Christians, and droll enough that sinners like Kinglake and I should be the only people to feel the tie of the ‘common faith’ (vide ’Eothen’).  A very pious Scotch gentleman wondered that I could think of entering a Copt’s house, adding that they were the publicans (tax-gatherers) of this country, which is partly true.  I felt inclined to mention that better company than he or I had dined with publicans, and even sinners.

The Copts are evidently the ancient Egyptians.  The slightly aquiline nose and long eye are the very same as the profiles of the tombs and temples, and also like the very earliest Byzantine pictures; du reste, the face is handsome, but generally sallow and rather inclined to puffiness, and the figure wants the grace of the Arabs.  Nor has any Copt the thoroughbred, distingue look of the meanest man or woman of good Arab blood.  Their feet are the long-toed, flattish foot of the Egyptian statue, while the Arab foot is classically perfect and you could put your hand under the instep.  The beauty of the Ababdeh, black, naked, and shaggy-haired, is quite marvellous.  I never saw such delicate limbs and features, or such eyes and teeth.

CAIRO,
March 19.

After leaving Siout I caught cold.  The worst of going up the Nile is that one must come down again and find horrid fogs, and cold nights with sultry days.  So I did not attempt Sakhara and the Pyramids, but came a day before my appointed time to Cairo.  Up here in the town it is much warmer and dryer, and my cough is better already.  I found all your letters in many volumes, and was so excited over reading them that I could not sleep one moment last night, so excuse dulness, but I thought you’d like to know I was safe in Briggs’ bank, and expecting Janet and Ross to-night.

April 9, 1863:  Mrs. Austin

To Mrs. Austin.  CAIRO, April 9, 1863.

Dearest Mutter,

I write to you because I know Janet is sure to write to Alick.  I have had a very severe attack of bronchitis.  As I seemed to be getting worse after Janet and Ross left for Alexandria, Omar very wisely sent for Hekekian Bey, who came at once bringing De Leo Bey, the surgeon-in-chief of the Pasha’s troops, and also the doctor to the hareem.  He has been most kind, coming two and three times a day at first.  He won’t take any fee, sous pretexte that he is officier du Pasha; I must send him a present from England.  As to Hekekian Bey, he is absolutely the Good Samaritan, and these Orientals do their kindnesses with such an air of enjoyment to themselves that it seems quite a favour to let them wait upon one.  Hekekian comes in every day with his handsome old face and a budget of news, all the gossip of the Sultan and his doings.  I shall always fancy the Good Samaritan in a tarboosh with a white beard and very long eyes.  I am out of bed to-day for the second time, and waiting for a warm day to go out.  Sally saw the illuminations last night; the Turkish bazaar she says was gorgeous.  The Sultan and all his suite have not eaten bread here, all their food comes from Constantinople.  To-morrow the Mahmaal goes—­think of my missing that sight! C’est desclant.