(Walee) is in thine eye, seeing that an Indian is all as one with an Englishman.’  ’How did I know there was an Indian and a Walee?’ etc.  Meanwhile the Walee had a bad thumb, and some one told his slave that there was a wonderful English doctress, so in the morning he sent for me, and I went inside the hareem.  He was very friendly, and made me sit close beside him, told me he was fourth in descent from Abd el-Kader Gylamee of Bagdad, but his father settled at Hyderabad, where he has great estates.  He said he was a Walee or saint, and would have it that I was in the path of the darweeshes; gave me medicine for my cough; asked me many questions, and finally gave me five dollars and asked if I wanted more?  I thanked him heartily, kissed the money politely, and told him I was not poor enough to want it and would give it in his name to the poor of Luxor, but that I would never forget that the Indian Sheykh had behaved like a brother to an English woman in a strange land.  He then spoke in great praise of the ‘laws of the English,’ and said many more kind things to me, adding again, ‘I tell thee thou art a Darweesh, and do not thou forget me.’  Another Indian from Lahore, I believe the Sheykh’s tailor, came to see me—­an intelligent man, and a Syrian doctor; a manifest scamp.  The people here said he was a bahlawar (rope-dancer).  Well, the authorities detained the boat with fair words till orders came from Keneh to let them go up further.  Meanwhile the Sheykh came out and performed some miracles, which I was not there to see, perfuming people’s hands by touching them with his, and taking English sovereigns out of a pocketless jacket, and the doctor told wonders of him.  Anyhow he spent 10 pounds in one day here, and he is a regular darweesh.  He and all the Hareem were poorly dressed and wore no ornaments whatever.  I hope Seyd Abdurachman will come down safe again, but no one knows what the Government wants of him or why he is so watched.  It is the first time I ever saw an Oriental travelling for pleasure.  He had about ten or twelve in the hareem, among them his three little girls, and perhaps twenty men outside, Indians, and Arabs from Syria, I fancy.

Next day I moved into the old house, and found one end in ruins, owing to the high Nile and want of repair.  However there is plenty more safe and comfortable.  I settled all accounts with my men, and made an inventory in Arabic, which Sheykh Yussuf wrote for me, which we laughed over hugely.  How to express a sauce-boat, a pie-dish, etc. in Arabic, was a poser.  A genteel Effendi, who sat by, at last burst out in uncontrollable amazement; ’There is no God but God:  is it possible that four or five Franks can use all these things to eat, drink and sleep on a journey?’ (N.B.  I fear the Franks will think the stock very scanty.) Whereupon master Achmet, with the swagger of one who has seen cities and men, held forth.  ’Oh Effendim, that is nothing;