I shall go up to the second Cataract as fast as possible, and return back at leisure.  Hekekian Bey came to take leave yesterday, and lent me several books; pray tell Senior what a kindness his introduction was.  It would have been rather dismal in Cairo—­if one could be dismal there—­without a soul to speak to.  I was sorry to know no Turks or Arabs, and have no opportunity of seeing any but the tradesman of whom I bought my stores but that was very amusing.  The young man of whom I bought my finjaans was so handsome, elegant and melancholy that I know he was the lover of the Sultan’s favourite slave.  How I wish you were here to enjoy all this, so new, so beautiful, and yet so familiar, life—­and you would like the people, poor things! they are complete children, but amiable children.

I went into the village here, where I was a curiosity, and some women took me into their houses and showed me their sleeping-place, cookery, poultry, etc.; and a man followed me to keep off the children, but no backsheesh was asked for, which showed that Europeans were rare there.  The utter destitution is terrible to see, though in this climate of course it matters less, but the much-talked-of dirt is simply utter poverty.  The poor souls are as clean as Nile mud and water will make their bodies, and they have not a second shirt, or any bed but dried mud.

Give my love to my darlings, and don’t be uneasy if you don’t get letters.  My cough has been better now for five days without a bad return of it, so I hope it is really better; it is the first reprieve for so long.  The sun is so hot, a regular broil, November 21, and all doors and windows open in the cabin—­a delicious breeze.

November 30, 1862:  Mrs. Austin

To Mrs. Austin.  FESHN, Monday, November 30, 1862.

Dearest Mutter,

I have now been enjoying this most delightful way of life for ten days, and am certainly much better.  I begin to eat and sleep again, and cough less.  My crew are a great amusement to me.  They are mostly men from near the first Cataract above Assouan, sleek-skinned, gentle, patient, merry black fellows.  The little black Reis is the very picture of good-nature and full of fun, ‘chaffing’ the girls as we pass the villages, and always smiling.  The steersman is of lighter complexion, also very cheery, but decidedly pious.  He prays five times a day and utters ejaculations to the apostle Rusool continually.  He hurt his ankle on one leg and his instep on the other with a rusty nail, and they festered.  I dressed them with poultices, and then with lint and strapping, with perfect success, to the great admiration of all hands, and he announced how much better he felt, ’Alhamdulillah, kieth-el-hairack khateer ya Sitti’ (Praise be to God and thanks without end O Lady), and everyone echoed, ‘kieth-el-hairack khateer.’  The most important person is