to me, ’You see, oh Lady, he is quite new, quite green.’  Achmet, who had never seen a garment or any article of European life two years ago, is now a smart valet, with very distinct ideas of waiting at table, arranging my things etc. and cooks quite cleverly.  Arab boys are amazing.  I have promoted him to wages—­one napoleon a month—­so now he will keep his family.  He is about a head taller than Rainie.

I intend to write a paper on the various festivals and customs of Copts and Muslims; but I must wait to see Abu Seyfeyn, near Luxor, the great Christian Saint, where all go to be cured of possession—­all mad people.  The Viceroy wages steady war against all festivals and customs.  The Mahmal was burked this year, and the fair at Tantah forbidden.  Then the Europeans spoil all; the Arabs no longer go to the Ata el-Khalig, and at the Doseh, the Frangee carriages were like the Derby day.  It is only up country that the real thing remains.

To-morrow my poor black sheep will be killed over the new prow of the boat; his blood ‘straked’ upon her, and his flesh sodden and eaten by all the workmen, to keep off the evil eye; and on the day she goes into the water, some Fikees will read the Koran in the cabin, and again there will be boiled mutton and bread.  The Christian Ma-allimeen (skilled workmen) hold to the ceremony of the sheep quite as much as the others, and always do it over a new house, boat, mill, waterwheel etc.

Did I tell you Omar has another girl—­about two months ago?  His wife and babies are to come up from Alexandria to see him, for he will not leave me for a day, on account of my constantly being so ailing and weak.  I hope if I die away from you all, you will do something for Omar for my sake, I cannot conceive what I should do without his faithful and loving care.  I don’t know why he is so devotedly fond of me, but he certainly does love me as he says ‘like his mother,’ and moreover as a very affectionate son loves his other.  How pleasant it would be if you could come—­but please don’t run any risks of fatigue or exposure to cold on your return.  If you cannot come I shall go to Luxor early in October and send back the boat to let.  I hear from Luxor that the people are all running away from the land, unable to pay triple taxes and eat bread:  the ruin is universal.  The poor Sheykhs el-Beled, who had the honour of dining with the Viceroy at Minieh have each had a squeeze politely administered.  One poor devil I know had to ‘make a present’ of 50 purses.

How is my darling Rainie?  I do so long for her earnest eyes at times, and wonder if I shall ever be able to get back to you all again.  I fear that break down at Soden sent me down a great terrace.  I have never lost the pain and the cough for a day since.  I have not been out for an age, or seen anyone.  Would you know the wife of your bosom in a pair of pink trousers and a Turkish tob?  Such is my costume as I write.  The woman who came to sew could not make a gown, so she made me a pair of trousers instead.  Farewell, dearest, I dare hardly say how your hint of possibly coming has made me wish it, and yet I dread to persuade you.  The great heat is quite over with the high Nile, and the air on the river fresh and cool—­cold at night even.