There is no hope of a good understanding with Orientals until Western Christians can bring themselves to recognise the common faith contained in the two religions, the real difference consists in all the class of notions and feelings (very important ones, no doubt) which we derive—­not from the Gospels at all—­but from Greece and Rome, and which of course are altogether wanting here.

Alick will tell you how curiously Omar illustrated the patriarchal feelings of the East by entirely dethroning me in favour of the ‘Master.’  ’That our Master, we all eat bread from his hand, and he work for us.’  Omar and I were equal before our Seedee.  He can sit at his ease at my feet, but when the Master comes in he must stand reverently, and gave me to understand that I too must be respectful.

I have got the boat of the American Mission at an outrageous price, 60 pounds, but I could get nothing under; the consolation is that the sailors profit, poor fellows, and get treble wages.  My crew are all Nubians.  Such a handsome reis and steersman—­brothers—­and there is a black boy, of fourteen or so, with legs and feet so sweetly beautiful as to be quite touching—­at least I always feel those lovely round young innocent forms to be somehow affecting.  Our old boat of last summer (Arthur Taylor’s) is sailing in company with us, and stately old reis Mubharak hails me every morning with the Blessing of God and the Peace of the Prophet.  Alee Kuptan, my steamboat captain will announce our advent at Thebes; he passed us to-day.  This boat is a fine sailer, but iron built and therefore noisy, and not convenient.  The crew encourage her with ‘Get along, father of three,’ because she has three sails, whereas two is the usual number.  They are active good-humoured fellows—­my men—­but lack the Arab courtesy and simpatico ways, and then I don’t understand their language which is pretty and sounds a little like Caffre, rather bird-like and sing-song, instead of the clattering guttural Arabic.  I now speak pretty tolerably for a stranger, i.e.  I can keep up a conversation, and understand all that is said to me much better than I can speak, and follow about half what people say to each other.  When I see you, Inshallah, next summer I shall be a good scholar, I hope.

January 2, 1865:  Mrs. Austin

To Mrs. Austin.  LUXOR, January 2, 1865.

Dearest Mutter,

I posted a letter for you at Girgeh, as we passed Siout with a good wind, I hope you will get it.  My crew worked as I never saw men work, they were paid to get to Luxor, and for eighteen days they never rested or slept day or night, and all the time were merry and pleasant.  It shows what power of endurance these ‘lazy Arabs’ have when there is good money at the end of a job, instead of the favourite panacea of ‘stick.’