I am a ‘stupid, lazy Arab’ now, as Omar says, having lain on a mat in a dark stone passage for six weeks or so, but my chest is no worse—­better I think, and my health has not suffered at all—­only I am stupid and lazy.  I had a pleasant visit lately from a great doctor from Mecca—­a man so learned that he can read the Koran in seven different ways, he is also a physician of European Hekmeh (learning).  Fancy my wonder when a great Alim in gorgeous Hegazee dress walked in and said:  ’Madame, tout ce qu’on m’a dit de vous fait tellement l’eloge de votre coeur et de votre esprit que je me suis arrete pour tacher de me procurer le plaisir de votre connaissance!’ A lot of Luxor people came in to pay their respects to the great man, and he said to me that he hoped I had not been molested on account of religion, and if I had I must forgive it, as the people here were so very ignorant, and barbarians were bigots everywhere.  I said, ‘Wallahy, the people of Luxor are my brothers!’ and the Maohn said, ’True, the fellaheen are like oxen, but not such swine as to insult the religion of a lady who has served God among them like this one.  She risked her life every day.’  ‘And if she had died,’ said the great theologian, ’her place was made ready among the martyrs of God, because she showed more love to her brothers than to herself!’

Now if this was humbug it was said in Arabic before eight or ten people, by a man of great religious authority.

Omar was aux anges to hear his Sitt spoken of ’in such a grand way for the religion.’  I believe that a great change is taking place among the Ulema, that Islam is ceasing to be a mere party flag, just as occurred with Christianity, and that all the moral part is being more and more dwelt on.  My great Alim also said I had practised the precepts of the Koran, and then laughed and added, ’I suppose I ought to say the Gospel, but what matters it, el Hakh (the truth) is one, whether spoken by Our Lord Jesus or by Our Lord Mahommed!’ He asked me to go with him to Mecca next winter for my health, as it was so hot and dry there.  I found he had fallen in with El-Bedrawee and the Khartoum merchant at Assouan.  The little boy was well again, and I had been outrageously extolled by them.  We are now sending off all the corn.  I sat the other evening on Mustapha’s doorstep and saw the Greeks piously and zealously attending to the divine command to spoil the Egyptians.  Eight months ago a Greek bought up corn at 60 piastres the ardeb (he follows the Coptic tax-gatherer like a vulture after a crow), now wheat is at 170 piastres the ardeb here, and the fellah has paid 3.5 per cent. a month besides.  Reckon the profit!  Two men I know are quite ruined, and have sold all they had.  The cattle disease forced them to borrow at these ruinous rates, and now alas, the Nile is sadly lingering in its rise, and people are very anxious.  Poor Egypt! or rather, poor Egyptians!  Of course, I need not say that there is great improvidence in those who can be fleeced as they are fleeced.  Mustapha’s household is a pattern of muddling hospitality, and Mustapha is generous and mean by turns; but what chance have people like these, so utterly uncivilized and so isolated, against Europeans of unscrupulous characters.