I may tell you that it is not a simple matter, and,
moreover, the best classification and arrangement
is that one which depends both on the action of the
dyes on the fibres, and also on the intrinsic chemical
character of the dyestuffs themselves. Since the
higher branches of organic chemistry are involved
in the consideration of the structure and dispositions,
and consequently more or less of the properties of
these dyes, you will readily comprehend that the thorough
appreciation and use of that highest and best method
of classification, particularly in the case of the
coal-tar dyes, will be, more or less, a sealed book
except to the student of organic chemistry. But
it may be asked, “How does that highest and
best method of classifying the dyestuffs affect the
users, the dyers, in their processes?” In reply,
I would say, “I believe that the dyer who so
understands the chemical principles involved in the
processes he carries out, and in the best methods of
classifying the dyes as chemical substances, so as
to be able to act independently of the prescriptions
and recipes given him by the dye manufacturers, and
so be master of his own position, will, ceteris
paribus, be the most economical and successful
dyer.” Many manufacturers of dyestuffs have
said the very same thing to me, but, independently
of this, I know it, and can prove it with the greatest
ease. Let me now, by means of an experiment or
two, prove to you that at least some classification
is necessary to begin with. So different and
varied are the substances used as colouring matters
by the dyer, both as regards their chemical and physical
properties, that they even act differently towards
the same fibre. I will take four pieces of cotton
fabric; three of them are simple white cotton, whilst
the fourth cotton piece has had certain metallic salts
mixed with thickening substances like gum, printed
on it in the form of a pattern, which at present cannot
readily be discerned. We will now observe and
note the different action on these pieces of cotton—(i.)
of a Turmeric bath, (ii.) a Magenta bath, and (iii.)
a madder or Alizarin bath. The Turmeric dyes
the cotton a fast yellow, the Magenta only stains
the cotton crimson, and on washing with water alone,
almost every trace of colour is removed again; the
madder, however, stains the cotton with no presentable
shade of colour at all, produces a brownish-yellow
stain, removed at once by a wash in water. But
let us take the printed piece of cotton and dye that
in the Alizarin bath, and then we shall discover the
conditions for producing colours with such a dyestuff
as madder or Alizarin. Different coloured stripes
are produced, and the colours are conditioned by the
kind of metallic salts used. Evidently the way
in which, the turmeric dyes the cotton is different
from that in which the madder dyes it. The first
is a yellow dyestuff, but it would be hard to assign
any one shade or tint to Alizarin as a dyestuff.
In fact Alizarin (the principle of madder) is of itself