proceeding properly confined to women, foreigners,
and other unpractical persons. All this admitted,
Newman enjoyed his journey, when once he had fairly
entered the current, as profoundly as the most zealous
dilettante. One’s theories, after all, matter
little; it is one’s humor that is the great
thing. Our friend was intelligent, and he could
not help that. He lounged through Belgium and
Holland and the Rhineland, through Switzerland and
Northern Italy, planning about nothing, but seeing
everything. The guides and valets de place found
him an excellent subject. He was always approachable,
for he was much addicted to standing about in the
vestibules and porticos of inns, and he availed himself
little of the opportunities for impressive seclusion
which are so liberally offered in Europe to gentlemen
who travel with long purses. When an excursion,
a church, a gallery, a ruin, was proposed to him,
the first thing Newman usually did, after surveying
his postulant in silence, from head to foot, was to
sit down at a little table and order something to
drink. The cicerone, during this process, usually
retreated to a respectful distance; otherwise I am
not sure that Newman would not have bidden him sit
down and have a glass also, and tell him as an honest
fellow whether his church or his gallery was really
worth a man’s trouble. At last he rose and
stretched his long legs, beckoned to the man of monuments,
looked at his watch, and fixed his eye on his adversary.
“What is it?” he asked. “How
far?” And whatever the answer was, although
he sometimes seemed to hesitate, he never declined.
He stepped into an open cab, made his conductor sit
beside him to answer questions, bade the driver go
fast (he had a particular aversion to slow driving)
and rolled, in all probability through a dusty suburb,
to the goal of his pilgrimage. If the goal was
a disappointment, if the church was meagre, or the
ruin a heap of rubbish, Newman never protested or
berated his cicerone; he looked with an impartial
eye upon great monuments and small, made the guide
recite his lesson, listened to it religiously, asked
if there was nothing else to be seen in the neighborhood,
and drove back again at a rattling pace. It is
to be feared that his perception of the difference
between good architecture and bad was not acute, and
that he might sometimes have been seen gazing with
culpable serenity at inferior productions. Ugly
churches were a part of his pastime in Europe, as well
as beautiful ones, and his tour was altogether a pastime.
But there is sometimes nothing like the imagination
of these people who have none, and Newman, now and
then, in an unguided stroll in a foreign city, before
some lonely, sad-towered church, or some angular image
of one who had rendered civic service in an unknown
past, had felt a singular inward tremor. It was
not an excitement or a perplexity; it was a placid,
fathomless sense of diversion.