After resting about two hours, we proceeded to the next village, five miles further along the ridge.  Some of our party were too tired to accompany us; they remained where we expected to camp for the night.  After walking some miles, we came unexpectedly on some natives.  As soon as they saw us they rushed for their spears, and seemed determined to dispute our way.  By a number of signs—­touching our chins with our right hands, etc.—­they understood we were not foes, so they soon became friendly.  They had their faces blackened with soot, plumbago, and gum, and then sprinkled over with white; their mouths and teeth were in a terrible mess from chewing the betel-nut.  On our leaving them, they shouted on to the next village.  An old man lay outside on the platform of the next house we came to; he looked terribly frightened as we approached him, but as, instead of injuring him, we gave him a present, he soon rallied, and got us water to drink.  By-and-by a few gathered round.  We understood them to say the most of the people were away on the plains hunting for wallabies.  One young woman had a net over her shoulders and covering her breasts, as a token of mourning—­an improvement on their ordinary attire, which is simply a short grass petticoat—­the men nil.

After a short stay, we returned to where we thought of camping for the night, but for want of water we went on to the village we had visited in the forenoon.  We slung our hammocks in the reception room, had supper, and turned in for the night.  It felt bleak and cold, and the narrowness of the ridge made us careful, even in our sleep, lest we should fall out and over.  On coming across the highest peak in the afternoon, we had a magnificent view of Mount Owen Stanley, with his two peaks rising far away above the other mountains by which he is surrounded.  It must have been about thirty miles off, and, I should think, impossible to reach from where we were.  We were entirely surrounded by mountains:  mountains north, east, south, and west—­above us and below us.  I question if it will ever be a country worth settling in.

We were anxious to spend the Sabbath at Port Moresby, so, leaving the most of our party, who were too tired to come with us, to rest till Monday, Mr. McFarlane, Ruatoka, and I set off on our return very early on Saturday morning, and had strangely difficult work in getting down the mountain side and along the river.  Fireflies danced all round in hundreds, and we awakened many strange birds before their time, which gave forth a note or two, only to sleep again.  Before daylight, we were at Mr. Goldie’s camp, where we had breakfast, and hurried on for the river.  We rested a short time there, and then away over plains to Port Moresby, which we reached about midday, tired indeed and very footsore.  Oh, that shoemakers had only to wear the boots they send to missionaries!