shown by these officials, passing through a long and
crowded train after a stoppage, in recognising the
newcomers and asking for their tickets, is often very
remarkable. Sometimes the conductor gives a coloured
counter-check to enable him to recognise the sheep
whom he has already shorn. These checks are generally
placed in the hat-band or stuck in the back of the
seat. The conductor collects them just before
he hands over the train to the charge of his successor.
As many complaints are made by English travellers
of the incivility of American conductors, I may say
that the first conductor I met found me, when he was
on his rounds to collect his counter-checks, lolling
back on my seat, with my hat high above me in the rack.
I made a motion as if to get up for it, when he said,
“Pray don’t disturb yourself, sir; I’ll
reach up for it.” Not all the conductors
I met afterwards were as polite as this, but he has
as good a right to pose as the type of American conductor
as the overbearing ruffians who stalk through the
books of sundry British tourists. In judging him
it should be remembered that he democratically feels
himself on a level with his passengers, that he would
be insulted by the offer of a tip, that he is harassed
all day long by hundreds of foolish questions from
foolish travellers, that he has a great deal to do
in a limited time, and that however “short”
he may be with a male passenger he is almost invariably
courteous and considerate to the unprotected female.
Though his address may sometimes sound rather familiar,
he means no disrespect; and if he takes a fancy to
you and offers you a cigar, you need not feel insulted,
and will probably find he smokes a better brand than
your own.
A feature connected with the American railway system
that should not be overlooked is the mass of literature
prepared by the railway companies and distributed
gratis to their passengers. The illustrated pamphlets
issued by the larger companies are marvels of paper
and typography, with really charming illustrations
and a text that is often clever and witty enough to
suggest that authors of repute are sometimes tempted
to lend their anonymous pens for this kind of work.
But even the tiniest little “one-horse”
railway distributes neat little “folders,”
showing conclusively that its tracks lead through
the Elysian Fields and end at the Garden of Eden.
A conspicuous feature in all hotel offices is a large
rack containing packages of these gaily coloured folders,
contributed by perhaps fifty different railways for
the use of the hotel guests.
Owing to the unlimited time for which tickets are
available, and to other causes, a race of dealers
in railway tickets has sprung up, who rejoice in the
euphonious name of “scalpers,” and often
do a roaring trade in selling tickets at less than
regular fares. Thus, if the fare from A to B
be $10 and the return fare $15, it is often possible
to obtain the half of a return ticket from a scalper