Higginson has well called “the brutalities of
Haggard and the garlic-flavors of Kipling.”
While, perhaps, the characteristic charm of the American
girl is her thorough-going individuality and the undaunted
courage of her opinions, which leads her to say frankly,
if she think so, that Martin Tupper is a greater poet
than Shakespeare, yet I have, on the other hand, met
a young American matron who confessed to me with bated
breath that she and her sister, for the first time
in their lives, had gone unescorted to a concert the
night before last, and, mirabile dictu, no harm
had come of it! It is in America that I have
over and over again heard language to which the calling
a spade a spade would seem the most delicate allusiveness;
but it is also in America that I have summoned a blush
to the cheek of conscious sixty-six by an incautious
though innocent reference to the temperature of my
morning tub. In that country I have seen the
devotion of Sir Walter Raleigh to his queen rivalled
again and again by the ordinary American man to the
ordinary American woman (if there be an ordinary
American woman), and in the same country I have myself
been scoffed at and made game of because I opened the
window of a railway carriage for a girl in whose delicate
veins flowed a few drops of coloured blood. In
Washington I met Miss Susan B. Anthony, and realised,
to some extent at least, all she stands for. In
Boston and other places I find there is actually an
organised opposition on the part of the ladies themselves
to the extension of the franchise to women. I
have hailed with delight the democratic spirit displayed
in the greeting of my friend and myself by the porter
of a hotel as “You fellows,” and then had
the cup of pleasure dashed from my lips by being told
by the same porter that “the other gentleman
would attend to my baggage!” I have been parboiled
with salamanders who seemed to find no inconvenience
in a room-temperature of eighty degrees, and have
been nigh frozen to death in open-air drives in which
the same individuals seemed perfectly comfortable.
Men appear at the theatre in orthodox evening dress,
while the tall and exasperating hats of the ladies
who accompany them would seem to indicate a theory
of street toilette. From New York to Buffalo I
am whisked through the air at the rate of fifty or
sixty miles an hour; in California I travelled on
a train on which the engineer shot rabbits from the
locomotive, and the fireman picked them up in time
to jump on the baggage-car at the rear end of the
train. At Santa Barbara I visited an old mission
church and convent which vied in quaint picturesqueness
with anything in Europe; but, alas! the old monk who
showed us round, though wearing the regulation gown
and knotted cord, had replaced his sandals by elastic-sided
boots and covered his tonsure with a common chummy.[4]