But if Heilbronn be attractive, from the imposing appearance of the houses, Heidelberg is infinitely more so; containing a population of nine thousand inhabitants.  We reached this latter place at dinner time, on Sunday—­but as it rained heavily for the last hour previous to our entrance, we could not take that survey of the adjacent country which we so much desired to do.  Yet we saw sufficient to delight us infinitely:  having travelled along the banks of the river Neckhar for the last three or four miles, observing the beautifully wood-crowned hills on the opposite side.  But it is the CASTLE, or OLD PALACE of HEIDELBERG—­where the Grand Dukes of Baden, or old Electors Palatine, used to reside—­and where the celebrated TUN, replenished with many a score hogshead of choice Rhenish wine—­form the grand objects of attraction to the curious traveller.  The palace is a striking edifice more extensive than any thing I had previously seen; but in the general form of its structure, so like Holland House at Kensington, that I hesitated not one moment to assign the commencement of the sixteenth century, as the period of the building in question.  The date of 1607,[180] cut in stone, over one of the principal doors, confirmed my conjecture.

I now looked eagerly on all sides—­observing what portions were more or less dilapidated, and wondering at the extent and magnificence of the building.  Room after room, corridor succeeding corridor—­saloons, galleries, banquetting apartments, each and all denuded of its once princely furniture—­did not fail to strike my imagination most forcibly.  Here was the Hall of Chivalry, which had been rent asunder by lightning:  yonder, a range of statues of the old Electors Counts Palatine:—­a tier of granite columns stood in another direction, which had equally defied the assaults of the foe and the ravages of time.  In one part, looking down, I observed an old square tower, which had been precipitated in consequence (as I learnt) of an explosion of gunpowder.  It was doubtless about a century older than the building from which I observed it.  On an eminence, almost smothered with larch and lime, and nearly as much above ourselves as we were from the town, stand the ruins of another old castle ... the residence of the older Counts Palatine.  The whole scene was full of enchantment to an antiquarian traveller; and I scarcely knew how to quit one portion of it for another.

The terrace, at the back of the castle, forms a noble and commanding walk.  Here, in former days, the counts and dukes of the empire, with all their trains of duchesses and damoiselles, used to parade in full pomp and magnificence, receiving the homage of their dependants, and the applause of the townsmen.  From hence, indeed, they might have looked down, in the proud spirit of disdain, upon their vassal subjects:—­or, in case of rebellion, have planted their cannon and pulverised their habitations in a little hour.