with surprising delicacy, expression, and force.
But evidences of the perfect state of art in ancient
times, at Nuremberg, may be gathered from almost every
street in which the curious visitor walks. On
the first afternoon of my arrival here, I was driven,
by a shower of rain, into a small shop—upon
a board, on the exterior of which were placed culinary
dishes. The mistress of the house had been cleaning
them for the purpose of shewing them off to advantage
on the Sunday. One of these dishes—which
was brass, with ornaments in high relief—happened
to be rather deep, but circular, and of small diameter.
I observed a subject in relief, at the bottom, which
looked very like art as old as the end of the fifteenth
century—although a good deal worn away,
from the regularity pf periodical rubbing. The
subject represented the eating of the forbidden fruit.
Adam, Eve, the Serpent, the trees, and the fruit—with
labels, on which the old gothic German letter was
sufficiently obvious—all told a tale which
was irresistible to antiquarian feelings. Accordingly
I proposed terms of purchase (one ducat) to the good
owner of the dish:—who was at first exceedingly
surprised at the offer ... wondering what could be
seen so particularly desirable in such a homely piece
of kitchen furniture ... but, in the end, she consented
to the proposal with extraordinary cheerfulness.
In another shop, on a succeeding day, I purchased
two large brass dishes, of beautiful circular forms,
with ornaments in bold relief—and brought
the whole culinary cargo home with me. While
upon the subject of old art—of which
there are scarcely a hundred yards in the city of
Nuremberg that do not display some memorial, however
perishing—I must be allowed to make especial
mention of the treasures of BARON DERSCHAU—a
respectable old Prussian nobleman, who has recently
removed into a capacious residence, of which the chambers
in front contain divers old pictures; and one chamber
in particular, backward, is filled with curiosities
of a singular variety of description.[172] I had indeed
heard frequent mention of this gentleman, both in Austria
and Bavaria. His reception of me was most courteous,
and his conversation communicative and instructive.
He did, and did not, dispose of things.
He was, and was not, a sort of gentleman-merchant.
One drawer was filled with ivory handled dirks, hunting
knives, and pipe-bowls; upon which the carver had
exercised all his cunning skill. Another drawer
contained implements of destruction in the shape of
daggers, swords, pistols, and cutlasses: all
curiously wrought. A set of Missals occupied
a third drawer: portfolios of drawings and prints,
a fourth; and sundry volumes, of various and
not uninteresting character, filled the shelves of
a small, contiguous book-case. Every thing around
me bore the aspect of temptation; when, calling
upon my tutelary genius to defend me in such a crisis,
I accepted the Baron’s offer, and sat down by
the side of him upon a sofa—which, from
the singularity of its form and materiel, might
formerly possibly have supported the limbs of Albert
Durer himself.