The Cathedral can boast of little antiquity.  It is almost a building of yesterday; yet it is large, richly ornamented on the outside, especially on the west, between the towers—­and is considered one of the noblest structures of the kind in Bavaria.[159] The interior wants that decisive effect which simplicity produces.  It is too much broken into parts, and covered with monuments of a very heterogeneous description.  Near it I traced the cloisters of an old convent or monastery of some kind, now demolished, which could not be less than five hundred years old.  The streets of Ratisbon are generally picturesque, as well from their undulating forms, as from the antiquity of a great number of the houses.  The modern parts of the town are handsome, and there is a pleasant inter-mixture of trees and grass plats in some of these more recent portions.  There are some pleasing public walks, after the English fashion; and a public garden, where a colossal sphinx, erected by the late philosopher Gleichen, has a very imposing appearance.  Here is also an obelisk erected to the memory of Gleichen himself, the founder of these gardens; and a monument to the memory of Keplar, the astronomer; which latter was luckily spared in the assault of this town by the French in 1809.

But these are, comparatively, every day objects.  A much more interesting source of observation, to my mind, were the very few existing relics of the once celebrated monastery of ST. EMMERAM—­and a great portion of the remains of another old monastery, called ST. JAMES—­which latter may indeed be designated the College of the Jacobites; as the few members who inhabit it were the followers of the house and fortunes of the Pretender, James Stuart.  The monastery, or Abbey of St. Emmeram was one of the most celebrated throughout Europe; and I suspect that its library, both of MSS. and printed books, was among the principal causes of its celebrity.[160] The intelligent and truly obliging Mr. A. Kraemer, librarian to the Prince of Tour and Taxis, accompanied me in my visit to the very few existing remains of St. Emmeram—­which indeed are incorporated, as it were, with the church close to the palace or residence of the Prince.  As I walked along the corridors of this latter building, after having examined the Prince’s library, and taken notes of a few of the rarer or more beautiful books, I could look through the windows into the body of the church itself.  It is difficult to describe this religious edifice, and still more so to know what portions belonged to the old monastery.  I saw a stone chair—­rude, massive, and almost shapeless—­in which Adam might have sat ... if dates are to be judged of by the barbarism of form.  Something like a crypt, of which the further part was uncovered—­reminded me of portions of the crypt at Freysing; and among the old monuments belonging to the abbey, was one of Queen Hemma, wife of Ludovic, King of Bavaria:  a great benefactress, who was buried there in 876.  The figure, which was whole-length, and of the size of life, was painted; and might be of the fourteenth century.  There is another monument, of Warmundus, Count of Wasserburg, who was buried in 1001.  These monuments have been lithographised, from the drawings of Quaglio, in the “Denkmahle der Baukunst des Mittelalters im Koenigreiche Baiern,” 1816.  Folio.