RATISBON, NUREMBERG, MANHEIM.

Supplement.

Having found it impracticable to write to my friend—­on the route from Vienna to Paris, and from thence to London—­the reader is here presented with a few SUPPLEMENTAL PARTICULARS with which that route furnished me; and which, I presume to think, will not be considered either misplaced or uninteresting.  They are arranged quite in the manner of MEMORANDA, or heads:  not unaccompanied with a regret that the limits of this work forbid a more extended detail.  I shall immediately, therefore, conduct the reader from Vienna to

RATISBON.

I left VIENNA, with my travelling companion, within two days after writing the last letter, dated from that place—­upon a beautiful September morning.  But ere we had reached St. Poelten, the face of the heavens was changed, and heavy rain accompanied us till we got to Moelk, where we slept:  not however before I had written a note to the worthy Benedictine Fraternity at the monastery—­professing my intention of breakfasting with them the next morning.  This self-invitation was joyfully accepted, and the valet, who returned with the written answer, told me that it was a high day of feasting and merry-making at the monastery—­and that he had left the worthy Monks in the plenitude of their social banquet.  We were much gratified the next morning, not only by the choice and excellence of the breakfast, but by the friendliness of our reception.  So simple are manners here, that, in going up the hill, towards the monastery, we met the worthy Vice Principal, Pallas, habited in his black gown—­returning from a baker’s shop, where he had been to bespeak the best bread.  I was glad to renew my acquaintance with the Abbe Strattman, and again solicited permission for Mr. Lewis to take the portrait of so eminent a bibliographer.  But in vain:  the Abbe answering, with rather a melancholy and mysterious air, that “the world was lost to him, and himself to the world.”

We parted—­with pain on both sides; and on the same evening slept, where we had stopt in our route to Vienna, at Lintz.  The next morning (Sunday) we started betimes to breakfast at Efferding.  Our route lay chiefly along the banks of the Danube ... under hanging woods on one side, with villages and villas on the other.  The fog hung heavily about us; and we could catch but partial and unsatisfactory glimpses of that scenery, which, when lightened by a warm sunshine, must be perfectly romantic.  At Efferding our carriage and luggage were examined, while we breakfasted.  The day now brightened up, and nothing but sunshine and “the song of earliest birds” accompanied us to Sigharding,—­the next post town.  Hence to Scharding, where we dined, and to Fuersternell, where we supped and slept.  The inn was crowded by country people below, but we got excellent quarters in the attics; and were regaled with peaches, after supper, which might have vied with those out of the Imperial garden at Vienna.  We arose betimes, and breakfasted at Vilshofen—­and having lost sight of the Danube, since we left Efferding, we were here glad to come again in view of it:  and especially to find it accompany us a good hundred miles of our route, till we reached Ratisbon.