A Bibliographical, Antiquarian and Picturesque Tour in France and Germany, Volume Three eBook

This eBook from the Gutenberg Project consists of approximately 453 pages of information about A Bibliographical, Antiquarian and Picturesque Tour in France and Germany, Volume Three.

A Bibliographical, Antiquarian and Picturesque Tour in France and Germany, Volume Three eBook

This eBook from the Gutenberg Project consists of approximately 453 pages of information about A Bibliographical, Antiquarian and Picturesque Tour in France and Germany, Volume Three.
spire has been long distinguished for its elegance and height.  Probably these are the most appropriate, if not the only, epithets of commendation which can be applied to it.  After Strasbourg and Ulm, it appears a second-rate edifice.  Not but what the spire may even vie with that of the former, and the nave may be yet larger than that of the latter:  but, as a whole, it is much inferior to either—­even allowing for the palpable falling off in the nave of Strasbourg cathedral.  The spire, or tower—­for it partakes of both characters—­is indeed worthy of general admiration.  It is oddly situated, being almost detached—­and on the south side of the building.  Indeed the whole structure has a very strange, and I may add capricious, if not repulsive, appearance, as to its exterior.  The western and eastern ends have nothing deserving of distinct notice or commendation.  The former has a porch, which is called “the Giant’s porch:”  it should rather be designated as that of the Dwarf.  It has no pretensions to size or striking character of any description.  Some of the oldest parts of the cathedral appear to belong to the porch of the eastern end.  As you walk round the church, you cannot fail to be struck with the great variety of ancient, and to an Englishman, whimsical looking mural monuments, in basso and alto relievos.  Some of these are doubtless both interesting and curious.

But the spire[140] is indeed an object deserving of particular admiration.  It is next to that of Strasbourg in height; being 432 feet of Vienna measurement.  It may be said to begin to taper from the first stage or floor; and is distinguished for its open and sometimes intricate fretwork.  About two-thirds of its height, just above the clock, and where the more slender part of the spire commences, there is a gallery or platform, to which the French quickly ascended, on their possession of Vienna, to reconnoitre the surrounding country.  The very summit of the spire is bent, or inclined to the north; so much so, as to give the notion that the cap or crown will fall in a short time.  As to the period of the erection of this spire, it is supposed to have been about the middle, or latter end, of the fifteenth century.  It has certainly much in common with the highly ornamental gothic style of building in our own country, about the reign of Henry the VIth.  The coloured glazed tiles of the roof of the church are very disagreeable and unharmonising.  These colours are chiefly green, red, and blue.  Indeed the whole roof is exceedingly heavy and tasteless.  I will now conduct you to the interior.  On entering, from the south-east door, you observe, to the left, a small piece of white marble—­which every one touches, with the finger or thumb charged with holy water, on entering or leaving the cathedral.  Such have been the countless thousands of times that this piece of marble has been so touched, that, purely, from such friction, it has been worn nearly half an inch below the general surrounding surface.  I have great doubts, however, if this mysterious piece of masonry be as old as the walls of the church, (which may be of the fourteenth century) which they pretend to say it is.

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A Bibliographical, Antiquarian and Picturesque Tour in France and Germany, Volume Three from Project Gutenberg. Public domain.