The rowers used their oars so gently, as hardly to make us sensible of their sounds.  The boat glided softly along; and it was evident, from the varying forms of the scenery, that we were making considerable way.  We had a voyage of at least nine English miles to accomplish, ere we reached the opposite extremity—­called Gmunden; and where we were told that the inn would afford us every accommodation which we might wish.  On reaching the first winding or turning of the lake, to the left, a most magnificent and even sublime object—­like a mountain of rock—­presented itself to the right.  It rose perpendicularly—­vast, craggy, and of a height, I should suppose, little short of 2000 feet.  Its gray and battered sides—­now lighted up by the varied tints of a setting sun—­seemed to have been ploughed by many a rushing torrent, and covered by many a winter’s snow.  Meanwhile the lake was receiving, in the part nearest to us, a breadth of deep green shadow, as the sun became lower and lower.  The last faint scream of the wild fowl gave indication that night was coming on; and the few small fishermen’s huts, with which the banks were slightly studded, began to fade from the view.  Yet the summit of the mountain of rock, which I have just mentioned, was glowing with an almost golden hue.  I cannot attempt a more minute description of this enchanting scene.

One thing struck me very forcibly.  This enormous rocky elevation seemed to baffle all our attempts to near it—­and yet it appeared as if we were scarcely a quarter of a mile from it.  This will give you some notion of its size and height.  At length, the scenery of the lake began to change—­into a more quiet and sober character....  We had now passed the rocky mountain, and on looking upon its summit, we observed that the golden glow of sunshine had subsided into a colour of pale pink, terminating in alternate tints of purple and slate.  Almost the whole landscape had faded from the eye, when we reached the end of our voyage; having been more than two hours upon the lake.  On disembarking, we made directly for the inn—­where we found every thing even exceeding what we had been led to expect—­and affording a very striking and comfortable contrast to the quarters of the preceding evening at St. Gilgen.  Sofas, carpets, lustres, and two good bed-rooms—­a set of china which might have pleased a German baron—­all glittered before our eyes, and shewed us that, if we were not well satisfied, the fault would be our own.  The front windows of the hotel commanded a direct and nearly uninterrupted length-view of the lake; and if the full moon had risen ... but one cannot have every thing one wants—­even at the hotel of Gmunden.