awoke from sleep, having gradually slid down.  By five o’clock, the smith’s hammer was heard at work below—­upon the door of the dismembered carriage—­and by the time we had risen at eight o’clock, the valet reported to us that the job was just then ... in the very state in which it was at its commencement!  So much for the reputation of the company of white-smiths at St. Gilgen.  We were glad to be off by times; but I must not quit this obscure and humble residence without doing the landlady the justice to say, that her larder and kitchen enabled us to make a very hearty breakfast.  This, for the benefit of future travellers—­benighted like ourselves.

The morning lowered, and some soft rain fell as we started:  but, by degrees, the clouds broke away, and we obtained a complete view of the enchanting country through which we passed—­as we drove along by the banks of the Aber lake, to Ischel.  One tall, sharp, and spirally-terminating rock, in particular, kept constantly in view before us, on the right; of which the base and centre were wholly feathered with fir.  It rose with an extraordinary degree of abruptness, and seemed to be twice as high as the spire of Strasbourg cathedral.  To the left, ran sparkling rivulets, as branches of the three lakes just mentioned.  An endless variety of picturesque beauty—­of trees, rocks, greenswards, wooded heights, and glen-like passes—­canopied by a sky of the deepest and most brilliant blue—­were the objects upon which we feasted till we reached Ischel:  where we changed horses.  Here we observed several boats, of a peculiarly long and narrow form, laden with salt, making their way for the Steyer and Ens rivers, and from thence to the Danube.  To describe what we saw, all the way till we reached the Traun See, or the LAKE OF GMUNDEN, would be only a repetition of the previous description.

At Inderlambach, close to the lake in question, we stopped to dine.  This is a considerable village, or even country town.  On the heights are well-trimmed gravel walks, from which you catch a commanding view of the hither end of the lake; and of which the sight cheered us amazingly.  We longed to be afloat.  There is a great manufactory of salt carried on upon these heights—­at the foot of which was said to be the best inn in the town.  Thither we drove:  and if high charges form the test of the excellence of an inn, there is good reason to designate this, at Inderlambach, as such.  We snatched a hasty meal, (for which we had nearly fifteen florins to pay) being anxious to get the carriage and luggage aboard one of the larger boats, used in transporting travellers, before the sun was getting too low ... that we might see the wonders of the scenery of which we had heard so much.  It was a bright, lovely afternoon; and about half-past six we were all, with bag and baggage, on board.  Six men, with oars resembling spades in shape, were to row us; and a seventh took the helm.  The water was as smooth as glass, and of a sea-green tint, which might have been occasioned by the reflection of the dark and lofty wood and mountainous scenery, by which the lake is surrounded.