mountain.  The Mande See, Aber See, and Aller See, (three beautiful lakes) lay to the left; of which we caught, occasionally, from several commanding heights, most magnificent views—­as the last light of day seemed to linger upon their surfaces.  They are embosomed in scenery of the most beautiful description.  When we reached St. Gilgen, or Gilling, we resolved upon passing the night there.

It was quite dark, and rather late, when we entered this miserable village; but within half a league of it, we ran a very narrow chance of being overturned, and precipitated into a roaring, rapid stream, just below the road—­along the banks of which we had been sometime directing our course.  A fir-pole lay across the road, which was undiscernible from the darkness of the night; and the carriage, receiving a violent concussion, and losing its balance for a moment—­leaning over the river—­it was doubtful what would be the issue.  Upon entering the archway of the inn, or rather public house—­from the scarcity of candles, and the ignorance of rustic ostlers, the door of the carriage (it being accidentally open) was completely wrenched from the body.

Never, since our night’s lodging at Saudrupt,[90] had we taken up our quarters at so miserable an auberge.  The old woman, our landlady, seemed almost to cast a suspicious eye upon us; but the valet in a moment disarmed her suspicions.  It was raw, cold, and late; but the kitchen fire was yet in full force, and a few earthen-ware utensils seemed to contain something in the shape of eatables.  You should know, that the kitchen fire-places, in Germany, are singularly situated; at least all those at the public inns where we have stopped.  A platform, made of brick, of the height of about three feet, is raised in the centre of the floor.  The fire is in the centre of the platform.  You look up, and see directly the open sky through the chimney, which is of a yawning breadth below, but which narrows gradually towards the top.  It was so cold, that I requested a chair to be placed upon the platform, and I sat upon it—­close to the kitchen fire—­receiving very essential benefit from the position.  All the kitchen establishment was quickly put in requisition:  and, surrounded by cook and scullion—­pots, pans, and culinary vessels of every description—­I sat like a monarch upon his throne:  while Mr. Lewis was so amused at the novelty of the scene, that he transferred it to his sketch-book.

It was midnight when we attacked our potage—­in the only visitor’s bed-room in the house.  Two beds, close to each other, each on a sloping angle of nearly forty-five degrees, were to receive our wearied bodies.  The materiel of the beds was straw; but the sheets were white and well aired, and edged (I think) with a narrow lace; while an eider down quilt—­like a super-incumbent bed—­was placed upon the first quilt.  It was scarcely day-light, when Mr. Lewis found himself upon the floor,