“Help yourself to all you want at the beginning,” said the doctor kindly.  “Take as much as you think you can possibly stow away.”

We were glad afterwards that we had followed the doctor’s advice, for when we had finished helping ourselves the men fell upon that lamb and rent it limb from limb with their horny hands.  Montenegrins have not pretty table manners.  Forks are superfluous, a hunting-knife will do for the bread, and spoons are only used for fluids, when they dip in the common bowl.

That evening we went out shooting in another direction, and were amply rewarded for an exceeding tiring climb, although deer were not abundant.  In fact, the moment that the shepherds take possession of the mountains, game nearly always disappears, returning with the peace and solitariness of the autumn.

On the following day we left Raskrsnica at an early hour en route for Andrijevica, which lies at a considerably lower altitude than Kolasin.  Consequently we had a lot of downhill work.  We had another magnificent view of the Kom on our way, but otherwise our ride of about six hours was uneventful.  Andrijevica is first seen from a great height, and really looks quite close.

“Half an hour,” said our guides, “will see us in the town.”

The descent was of a breakneck description, and had to be done on foot.  The heat was tremendous, and, the way proving to be an hour and a half, our tempers suffered.  It was about noon when we rode into the little town or village, for it is nothing more, though the capital of the Vasovic district, Montenegro’s most eastern and consequently most dangerous possession.  It borders on Gusinje, the wildest and fiercest of Albania’s clans.

The office of the Governor, or Voivoda, to give him his proper Montenegrin title, corresponding to our word Duke, is therefore no sinecure.  His position calls for more diplomacy and acumen than any other in the country.  A false move, a thoughtless action or word could plunge the tribes of Northern Albania and Montenegro in a fierce warfare.  But a few weeks after our departure, war very nearly did break out at Mokra, over a dispute as to the rights of a small grazing-ground, and was only averted at the last moment.  Then Andrijevica was full of troops, for 25,000 Albanians stood fully armed on the border, and a pistol-shot would have started an invasion of Montenegro.

[Illustration:  ANDRIJEVICA]

The little township is prettily situated on a slight eminence at the junction of the Lim and the Perusica, the former a tributary of the Danube.  It has a population of five hundred clad in the white Albanian dress, and is celebrated, rightly or wrongly, for the beauty of its women.  Certainly our landlady was a pretty enough looking woman of most refined manners.  The men are very fine-looking fellows.  The country all round is magnificent.

Our inn was also the town bakery, and we had a nice large bedroom well stocked with flies, and real beds, though in daytime it was the dining and drawing-room combined.