Several halts at hans were made during the day for rest, food, and milk, and about three p.m. we struck the River Tara, and had crossed the water-shed of the Adria and the Black Sea.  We followed the Tara till Kolasin, where we arrived about seven o’clock.

Montenegrins have no idea of judging time and distance, which is curious.  There is another favourite way of describing a distance:  by cigar (cigarette) smoking.  You will be informed that the distance is one cigarette, which means that the traveller has time to smoke one cigarette on the way.  As an ordinary smoker consumes a cigarette in about ten minutes, the distance would seem small, but it is not so.  It is better to reckon two hours.  Quarters of hours and cigarette-smoking measurements take a lot of learning, and cause much vexation to the spirit before they are mastered.  When the stranger has mastered them, he ceases to ask, and patiently waits.  One word of warning to intending travellers.  If you are told that the next village is two hours away, then rest awhile and eat and drink, for two hours means “X.”

About seven p.m. we clattered up the little street of Kolasin, which is the capital of the same-named district.

It is a beautiful mountainous tract of country, as unlike to Montenegro proper as is the sun to the moon, richly wooded with dense primeval beech forests, full of rushing streams and rich pasturages.  The little town itself is rather uninteresting; it has about 1,500 inhabitants, all Montenegrin, for the Turk has almost entirely disappeared.  Only in a ruined mosque and one or two dilapidated Turkish houses is the traveller reminded that once the Unspeakable was master here.  The houses are all built with the afore-mentioned high conical roof and of substantial aspect.

Our inn was a curiosity, and as we drew rein before it we noticed a crowd of men in the balcony of the first or top floor, for here the ground floor was devoted to stabling.  Doctor S. hastily whispered that the Governor and General of Kolasin was one of the men upstairs.  On going up the rickety stairs, we were at once introduced to him, and received most friendlily.  He was a small wiry man, and reminded one strongly in appearance of Lord Roberts.  Also, he spoke excellent German, having studied years ago in the Viennese Military Academy.  Very kindly he promised to assist us during our stay in every way, and invited us to his house next morning.

We overlooked the Market Square and had real beds, though the only available room was tiny.  Dr. S. and Stephan slept somewhere else.  After the heat of the valley, we found the air very keen up here; Kolasin lies over 3,000 feet, and is the highest town of any size in Montenegro.

On the following morning we visited the Governor Martinovic formally in his house.  It is only recently that he has ceased to be the Artillery General of Montenegro, a post which he held all through the Turkish war, taking part in all the important engagements.