4th of Safa.  Continued in the same place, there not being sufficient wind to ascend the river.  About two hours after noon arrived an Arab from above; he was on his way to the Divan Effendi, who was a few miles below us, to inform him that a boat, of which he had been one of the crew, had been dashed to pieces against the rocks in attempting to pass a rapid.  I demanded of him “how many rapids there were yet ahead;” he replied “that there were several; how many he did not exactly know.”  This intelligence made me apprehensive that we might be another month in getting through these obstacles, and determined me to renew my efforts to obtain camels and proceed to the Pasha by land.  I had made several attempts to hire some for this purpose, during the last fifteen days, without success.  The man above mentioned informed me that I could probably obtain some at a village about six hours off.  I determined to send my servants on the morrow to inquire.

5th of Safa.  Passed the night at the same place; early in, the morning a favorable breeze sprung up and the Rais got the boat under sail.  Was obliged, in consequence, to proceed in the boat as long as the wind held.  Observed as we proceeded a number of fertile spots, some of them cultivated, and a few small villages.  I was informed that these will become more frequent as we proceed.  During this day, with a favorable wind, made only about twelve miles against the current.

6th of Safa.  Got under way about two hours after sunrise, with a strong breeze from the northward.  About half an hour after quitting the land, passed a dangerous rapid, occasioned by a. reef of rocks reaching nearly across the river.  In passing this rapid the wind slackened for half a minute, and the current carried the boat astern to within six or seven feet of the rocks; at this critical instant the wind happily freshened, and forced the boat up the current, to the great relief of all on board.  An hour after, passed a picturesque spot, where the river is divided by a high rocky island, supporting on its summit some ruined fortifications made by the natives; on the right bank of the river, just opposite, is a fertile spot of ground and a village, surrounded by date trees and plantations.

Our Rais put to land about noon, the wind falling, and rocks and rapids of formidable appearance being right ahead.[13] We have made about eight miles to-day.  Saw about two miles above us a number of boats lying to the shore, apparently obstructed by the rapid just mentioned.  About the middle of the afternoon, in walking along the shore, saw a crocodile; it was small, about three feet in length.  When I came upon him, he was sunning himself on the shore; on seeing me, he ran with great rapidity and plunged into the river.

7th of Safa.  Got under way about two hours after sunrise, to pass the rocks and rapids already mentioned.  The passage was dangerous, and the boat thrice in imminent peril.  We struck once on rocks under water, where the current was running probably at the rate of six knots an hour.