A mere peep into any organ will disclose the mechanical working of stops, which is in such great variety that we will not attempt to detail it here.

EXAMINATION.

After a little experience you will be able to make an examination of an organ and tell just what it needs without so much as drawing a screw.  The reeds are usually divided into treble sets and bass sets; two octaves of bass reeds, and three octaves of treble reeds constitute a set.  The Diapason stop is nearly always present, and controls the heaviest reeds in the bass except the Bourdon or Sub Bass, if the organ should have either of these.  In examining an organ, close all stops but the Diapason, for instance, then successively press every key in the two bass octaves.

Now if, for instance, a key is found silent, that is, just an octave from the lowest tone, by counting the keys from the lowest tone, you will find the silent key is number thirteen.  Look into the organ, find the mute that is up by reason of this Diapason stop’s being pulled, and count the reeds from the lowest to the thirteenth; pull the reed and you will find it obstructed or perhaps broken.  Most organs have a Dulciana stop in the treble which corresponds with the Diapason in the bass.  Test the reeds of this set just as you did those of the Diapason.  Go over each set of reeds in like manner.  Broken reeds should be sent to the factory where the organ was built.  The manufacturers will send a new one, often without cost.

Stops are sometimes found disconnected from the mutes, which deprives the player of the use of certain sets of reeds, and while it is a small matter to connect them, it adds much to the improvement imparted to the instrument by the tuner.  After disconnecting the stops for any purpose, always be sure you connect them properly before leaving your work.

STICKING KEYS.

The key itself is subject to many of the same faults as is that of the piano.  It may bind in the guide pin or warp so as to cause it to stick, or it may stick from some substance between the keys.  Sometimes the front board is so near the front of the keys that when the latter are depressed they stick against it.  A screw is generally found in the center, the head of which comes against the front board and holds it out.  If the board is too near give the screw a turn or two back.  If there is no screw, place a piece of card against the board and the case at the ends.  The end keys sometimes stick against the blocks at the ends of the key-board.  Scrape the block or key where it sticks.  A key may stay down because of the cedar pin, sometimes called the tracker pin or pitman, sticking in the hole.  Take out the key-board which is held by a screw at each end, sometimes by another in the middle; in which case a key or two must be removed to get at it.  To remove a key, take off the strip at the back of the keys, held in place by small screws, and the key may be lifted up.  Now, finding the sticking pin, pull it out and sandpaper or rub it with black lead until it is found to work quite freely in the guide hole of the guide board and the hole in the reed board.