a broiled fish supper, and to bed by midnight, having
ordered a twilight gig, wherein by 7 on the ninth
I was traversing the beautiful bay. Penzance
is a fine town in a splendid situation; the bay,
bounded by the Lizard and its opposite bold brother-headland,
inclosing St. Michael’s Mount, and having a
fertile and villa-studded background; the town
full of good handsome shops (one like the Egyptian
Hall), a large cathedralish church, and with
a very special market-place, of light granite, in
the form of a plain Grecian temple, surmounted
at the middle by an imposing dome. As I
had duly culled information from the natives, I lost
no time in breakfasting, but drove off, bun in hand,
to explore the country of the Druids. Now,
if the matters I succeeded in visiting were in
isolated and plain situations, they might have been
less disappointing; but where the face of the whole
soil is covered naturally with jutting rocks,
and timeworn boulders of granite, one doesn’t
feel much astonishment to see some one stone set
on end a little more obviously than the rest, or to
find out by dint of perseverance a little arrangement,
which may or may not be accidental: added
to this, the cottages, and walls, and field enclosures
are built of such immense blocks cleared off the surface
of the fields, that one’s mind is prepared
for far more than the Druids ever did: many
a Stonehengeified doorway, many a Titanic pigstye,
many a “Pelion-on-Ossa” questionable-sentry
box, puts one out of conceit with our puny ancestors.
I went first to the Dans-mene, a famous stone-circle;
and felt not a little vexed to find that I, little
i, am feet taller than any of the uprights there,
not 25 in number, and no bigger than field gateposts.
It is evidently the consecrated portion of a
battlefield, for there are several single stones
dotted about the neighbourhood, to mark where heroes
fell; like those at Inveraray, but smaller. The
habit all through Cornwall of setting up a stone
in every field, for cattle to scratch themselves
withal, seems to be a sly satire against other
rubbing-stones for A.S. Ses. A few dreary
miles further brought me to the “voonder
of voonders,” the Logan-Rock, which on the
map is near Boskenna. The cliff and coast scenery
is superb; immense masses of granite of all shapes
and sizes tumbled about in all directions; what
wonder that in such a heap of giant pebbles one
should be found ricketty? or more, what wonder that
the very decomposing nature of coarse granite
should have caused the atmosphere to eat away,
gradually, all but the actual centre of gravity?
both at the Logan, and Land’s End, and Mount
St. Michael, I am sure I have seen a hundred
rocks wasted very nearly to the moving point,
and I could mention specifically six, which in 20
years will rock, or in half an hour of chiselling
would. In part proof of what I say, the
Land-End people, jealous of Logan customers,
have just found out a great rock in their parts, which
two men can make to move; I recommended a long-handled