that it is not divided into pews, and incumbered with
forms and benches like our churches; nor the pillars
(which are most of them red and white marble) disfigured
by the little tawdry images and pictures, that give
Roman-catholic churches the air of toy-shops.
The walls seemed to be inlaid with such very lively
colours, in small flowers, that I could not imagine
what stones had been made use of. But going nearer,
I saw they were crusted with japan china, which has
a very beautiful effect. In the midst hung a
vast lamp of silver, gilt; besides which, I do verily
believe, there were at least two thousand of a lesser
size. This must look very glorious, when they
are all lighted; but being at night, no women are
suffered to enter. Under the large lamp is a
great pulpit of carved wood, gilt; and just by, a fountain
to wash, which, you know, is an essential part of
their devotion. In one corner is a little gallery,
inclosed with gilded lattices, for the grand-signior.
At the upper end, a large niche, very like an altar,
raised two steps, covered with gold brocade, and standing
before it, two silver gilt candlesticks, the height
of a man, and in them white wax candles, as thick
as a man’s waist. The outside of the mosque
is adorned with towers, vastly high, gilt on the top,
from whence the imaums (sic) call the people
to prayers. I had the curiosity to go up one
of them, which is contrived so artfully, as to give
surprise to all that see it. There is but one
door, which leads to three different stair-cases,
going to the three different stories of the tower,
in such a manner, that three priests may ascend, rounding,
without ever meeting each other; a contrivance very
much admired. Behind the mosque, is an exchange
full of shops, where poor artificers are lodged gratis.
I saw several dervises (sic) at their prayers here.
They are dressed in a plain piece of woolen, with
their arms bare, and a woolen cap on their heads, like
a high crowned hat without brims. I went to
see some other mosques, built much after the same
manner, but not comparable in point of magnificence
to this I have described, which is infinitely beyond
any church in Germany or England; I won’t talk
of other countries I have not seen. The seraglio
does not seem a very magnificent palace. But
the gardens are very large, plentifully supplied with
water, and full of trees; which is all I know of them,
having never been in them.
I TELL you nothing of the order of Mr W——’s entry, and his audience. These things are always the same, and have been so often described, I won’t trouble you with the repetition. The young prince, about eleven years old, sits near his father, when he gives audience: he is a handsome boy; but, probably, will not immediately succeed the sultan, there being two sons of sultan Mustapha (his eldest brother) remaining; the eldest about twenty years old, on whom the hopes of the people are fixed. This reign has been bloody and avaricious. I am apt to believe, they are very impatient to see the end of it. I am, Sir, yours, &c. &c.