This copious subject has drawn me from my description
of the exchange, founded by Ali Bassa, whose name it
bears. Near it is the
sherski, a street
of a mile in length, full of shops of all kind of
fine merchandise, but excessive dear, nothing being
made here. It is covered on the top with boards,
to keep out the rain, that merchants may meet conveniently
in all weathers. The
besiten near it,
is another exchange, built upon pillars, where all
sorts of horse-furniture is sold: glittering
every where with gold, rich embroidery, and jewels,
it makes a very agreeable shew. From this place
I went, in my Turkish coach, to the camp, which is
to move in a few days to the frontiers. The
sultan is already gone to his tents, and all his court;
the appearance of them is, indeed, very magnificent.
Those of the great men are rather like palaces than
tents, taking up a great compass of ground, and being
divided into a vast number of apartments. They
are all of green, and the
bassas of three tails,
have those ensigns of their power placed in very conspicuous
manner before their tents, which are adorned on the
top with gilded balls, more or less, according to
their different ranks. The ladies go in coaches
to see the camp, as eagerly, as ours did to that of
Hyde-park; but ’tis very easy to observe, that
the soldiers do not begin the campaign with any great
cheerfulness. The war is a general grievance
upon the people, but particularly hard upon the tradesmen,
now that the grand signior is resolved to lead his
army in person. Every company of them is obliged,
upon this occasion, to make a present according to
their ability.
I TOOK the pains of rising at six in the morning to
see the ceremony which did not, however, begin till
eight. The grand signior was at the seraglio
window, to see the procession, which passed through
the principal streets. It was preceded by an
effendi, mounted on a camel, richly furnished,
reading aloud the alcoran, finely bound, laid upon
a cushion. He was surrounded by a parcel of boys,
in white, singing some verses of it, followed by a
man dressed in green boughs, representing a clean
husbandman sowing seed. After him several reapers,
With garlands of ears of corn, as Ceres is pictured,
with scythes in their hands, seeming to mow.
Then a little machine drawn by oxen, in which was
a wind-mill, and boys employed in grinding corn, followed
by another machine, drawn by buffaloes, carrying an
oven, and two more boys, one employed in kneading the
bread, and another in drawing it out of the oven.
These boys threw little cakes on both sides amongst
the crowd, and were followed by the whole company
of bakers, marching on foot, two by two, in their
best clothes, with cakes, loaves, pasties, and pies
of all sorts on their heads, and after them two buffoons,
or jack-puddings, with their faces and clothes smeared
with meal, who diverted the mob with their antic gestures.
In the same manner followed all the companies of