for its hot baths, that are resorted to both for diversion and health.  I stopped here one day, on purpose to see them; and, designing to go incognito, I hired a Turkish coach.  These voitures are not at all like ours, but much more convenient for the country, the heat being so great, that glasses would be very troublesome.  They are made a good deal in the manner of the Dutch stage-coaches, having wooden lattices painted and gilded; the inside being also painted with baskets and nosegays of flowers, intermixed commonly with little poetical mottos.  They are covered all over with scarlet cloth, lined with silk, and very often richly embroidered and fringed.  This covering entirely hides the persons in them, but may be thrown back at pleasure, and thus permits the ladies to peep through the lattices.  They hold four people very conveniently, seated on cushions, but not raised.

IN one of these covered waggons (sic), I went to the bagnio about ten o’clock.  It was already full of women.  It is built of stone, in the shape of a dome, with no windows but in the roof, which gives light enough.  There were five of these domes joined together, the outmost being less than the rest, and serving only as a hall, where the portress stood at the door.  Ladies of quality generally give this woman a crown or ten shillings; and I did not forget that ceremony.  The next room is a very large one paved with marble, and all round it are two raised sofas of marble, one above another.  There were four fountains of cold water in this room, falling first into marble basons (sic), and then running on the floor in little channels made for that purpose, which carried the streams into the next room, something less than this, with the same sort of marble sofas, but so hot with steams of sulphur proceeding from the baths joining to it, ’twas impossible to stay there with one’s cloaths (sic) on.  The two other domes were the hot baths, one of which had cocks of cold water turning into it, to temper it to what degree of warmth the bathers pleased to have.

I WAS in my travelling habit, which is a riding dress, and certainly appeared very extraordinary to them.  Yet there was not one of them that shewed the least surprise or impertinent curiosity, but received me with all the obliging civility possible.  I know no European court, where the ladies would have behaved themselves in so polite a manner to such a stranger.  I believe, upon the whole, there were two hundred women, and yet none of those disdainful smiles, and satirical whispers, that never fail in our assemblies, when any body appears that is not dressed exactly in the fashion.  They repeated over and over to me; “UZELLE, PEK UZELLE,” which is nothing but, Charming, very Charming.—­The first sofas were covered with cushions and rich carpets, on which sat the ladies; and on the second, their slaves behind them, but without any distinction of rank by their dress, all being in the state of nature, that