I saw here a new occasion for my compassion.  The wretches that had provided twenty waggons for our baggage from Belgrade hither for a certain hire, being all sent back without payment, some of their horses lamed (sic), and others killed, without any satisfaction made for them.  The poor fellows came round the house weeping and tearing their hair and beards in a most pitiful manner, without getting any thing but drubs from the insolent soldiers.  I cannot express to your R. H. how much I was moved at this scene.  I would have paid them the money out of my own pocket, with all my heart; but it Would only have been giving so much to the aga, who would have taken it from them without any remorse.  After four days journey from this place over the mountains, we came to Sophia, situated in a large beautiful plain on the river Isca, and surrounded with distant mountains.  ’Tis hardly possible to see a more agreeable landscape.  The city itself is very large, and extremely populous.  Here are hot baths, very famous for their medicinal virtues.—­Four days journey from hence we arrived at Philippopolis, after having passed the ridges between the mountains of Haemus and Rhodope, which are always covered with snow.  This town is situated on a rising ground near the river Hebrus, and is almost wholly inhabited by Greeks; here are still some ancient Christian churches.  They have a bishop; and several Of the richest Greeks live here; but they are forced to conceal their wealth with great care, the appearance of poverty [which includes part of its inconveniencies (sic)] being all their security against feeling it in earnest.  The country from hence to Adrianople, is the finest in the world.  Vines grow wild on all the hills; and the perpetual spring they enjoy makes every thing gay and flourishing.  But this climate, happy as it seems, can never be preferred to England, with all its frosts and snows, while we are blessed with an easy government, under a king, who makes his own happiness consist in the liberty of his people, and chuses rather to be looked upon as their father than their master.—­This theme would carry me very far, and I am sensible, I have already tired out your R. H.’s patience.  But my letter is in your hands, and you may make it as short as you please, by throwing it into the fire, when weary of reading it.  I am, madam,
                                       With the greatest respect, &c.

LET.  XXVI.

TO THE LADY ——.

Adrianople, April 1.  O. S. 1717.

I AM now got into a new world, where every thing I see appears to me a change of scene; and I write to your ladyship with some content of mind, hoping, at least, that you will find the charms of novelty in my letters, and no longer reproach me, that I tell you nothing extraordinary.  I won’t trouble you with a relation of our tedious journey; but must not omit what I saw remarkable at Sophia, one of the most beautiful towns in the Turkish empire, and famous