this kingdom. He is a very polite, agreeable,
cheerful old man, wearing the Hungarian habit, with
a venerable white beard down to his girdle.—Raab
is a strong town, well garrisoned and fortified, and
was a long time the frontier town between the Turkish
and German empires. It has its name from the
River Rab, on which it is situated, just on its meeting
with the Danube, in an open champaign (sic) country.
It was first taken by the Turks, under the command
of bassa Sinan, in the reign of sultan Amurath III.
in the year fifteen hundred and ninety-four.
The governor, being supposed to have betrayed it,
was afterwards beheaded by the emperor’s command.
The counts of Swartzenburg; and Palsi retook it by
surprise, 1598; since which time it has remained in
the hands of the Germans, though the Turks once more
attempted to gain it by stratagem in 1642. The
cathedral is large and well built, which is all I saw
remarkable in the town. Leaving Comora on the
other side the river, we went the eighteenth to Nosmuhl,
a small village, where however, we made shift to find
tolerable accommodation. We continued two days
travelling between this place and Buda, through the
finest plains in the world, as even as if they were
paved, and extremely fruitful; but for the most part
desert and uncultivated, laid waste by the long wars
between the Turk and the Emperor; and the more cruel
civil war, occasioned by the barbarous persecution
of the protestant religion by the emperor Leopold.
That prince has left behind him the character of
an extraordinary piety, and was naturally of a mild
merciful temper; but, putting his conscience into
the hands of a Jesuit, he was more cruel and treacherous
to his poor Hungarian subjects, than ever the Turk
has been to the Christians; breaking, without scruple
his coronation oath, and his faith, solemnly given
in many public treaties. Indeed, nothing can
be more melancholy than in travelling through Hungary,
to reflect on the former flourishing state of that
kingdom, and to see such a noble spot of earth almost
uninhabited. Such are also the present circumstances
of Buda (where we arrived very early the twenty-second)
once the royal seat of the Hungarian kings, whose
palace was reckoned one of the most beautiful buildings
of the age, now wholly destroyed, no part of the town
having been repaired since the last siege, but the
fortifications and the castle, which is the present
residence of the governor general Ragule, an officer
of great merit. He came immediately to see us,
and carried us in his coach to his house, where I
was received by his lady with all possible civility,
and magnificently entertained. This city is
situated upon a little hill on the south side of the
Danube. The castle is much higher than the town,
and from it the prospect is very noble. Without
the walls ly (sic) a vast number of little houses,
or rather huts, that they call the Rascian town, being
altogether inhabited by that people. The governor