assembly shall be at their house in honour of the feast of the count or countess—­such a one.  These days are called days of Gala, and all the friends or relations of the lady, whose saint it is, are obliged to appear in their best clothes, and all their jewels.  The mistress of the house takes no particular notice of any body, nor returns any body’s visit; and, whoever pleases, may go, without the formality of being presented.  The company are entertained with ice in several forms, winter and summer; afterwards they divide into several parties of ombre, piquet, or conversation, all games of hazard being forbid.

I SAW t’other day the Gala for Count Altheim, the emperor’s favourite, and never in my life saw so many fine clothes ill-fancied.  They embroider the richest gold stuffs; and provided they can make their clothes expensive enough, that is all the taste they shew in them.  On other days, the general dress is a scarf, and what you please under it.

BUT now I am speaking of Vienna, I am sure you expect I should say something of the convents; they are of all sorts and sizes, but I am best pleased with that of St Lawrence, where the ease and neatness they seem to live with, appears to be much more edifying than those stricter orders, where perpetual penance and nastiness must breed discontent and wretchedness.  The Nuns are all of quality.  I think there are to the number of fifty.  They have each of them a little cell perfectly clean, the walls of which are covered with pictures more or less fine, according to their quality.  A long white stone gallery runs by all of them, furnished With the pictures of exemplary sisters; the chapel is extremely neat and richly adorned.  But I could not forbear laughing at their shewing me a wooden head of our Saviour, which, they assured me, spoke during the siege of Vienna; and, as a proof of it, bid me mark his mouth, which had been open ever since.  Nothing can be more becoming than the dress of these Nuns.  It is a white robe, the sleeves of which are turned up with fine white callico (sic), and their head-dress the same, excepting a small veil of black crape that falls behind.  They have a lower sort of serving Nuns, that wait on them as their chambermaids.  They receive all visits of women, and play at ombre in their chambers, with permission of their abbess, which is very easy to be obtained.  I never saw an old woman so good-natured; she is near fourscore, and yet shews very little sign of decay, being still lively and cheerful.  She caressed me as if I had been her daughter, giving me some pretty things of her own work, and sweetmeats in abundance.  The grate is not of the most rigid; it is not very hard to put a head through, and I don’t doubt but a man, a little more slender than ordinary, might squeeze in his whole person.  The young count of Salamis came to the grate, while I was there, and the abbess gave him her hand to kiss.  But I was surprised to find here, the only beautiful young woman I have