and magnificence of its public buildings, particularly
the cathedral, whose grandeur filled me with astonishment.
The palaces, squares, fountains, statues, bridges,
do not only carry an aspect full of elegance and greatness,
but discover a taste quite different, in kind, from
that which reigns in the public edifices in other
countries. The more I see of Italy, the more
I am persuaded that the Italians have a style (if I
may use that expression) in every thing, which distinguishes
them almost essentially from all other Europeans.
Where they have got it,—whether from natural
genius or ancient imitation and inheritance, I shall
not examine; but the fact is certain. I have
been but one day in the gallery, that amazing repository
of the most precious remains of antiquity, and which
alone is sufficient to immortalize the illustrious
house of Medicis, by whom it was built, and enriched
as we now see it. I was so impatient to see the
famous Venus of Medicis, that I went hastily through
six apartments, in order to get a sight of this divine
figure; purposing (sic), when I had satisfied this
ardent curiosity, to return and view the rest at my
leisure. As I, indeed, passed through the great
room which contains the ancient statues, I was stopped
short at viewing the Antinous, which they have placed
near that of Adrian, to revive the remembrance of
their preposterous loves; which, I suppose, the Florentines
rather look upon as an object of envy, than of horror
and disgust. This statue, like that of the Venus
de Medicis, spurns description: such figures
my eyes never beheld.—I can now understand
that Ovid’s comparing a fine woman to a statue,
which I formerly thought a very disobliging similitude,
was the nicest and highest piece of flattery.
The Antinous is entirely naked, all its parts are
bigger than nature; but the whole, taken together,
and the fine attitude of the figure, carry such an
expression of ease, elegance and grace, as no words
can describe. When I saw the Venus I was rapt
in wonder,—and I could not help casting
a thought back upon Antinous. They ought to
be placed together; they are worthy of each other.—If
marble could see and feel, the separation might be
prudent,—if it could only see, it
would certainly lose its coldness, and learn to feel;
and, in such a case, the charms of these two figures
would produce an effect quite opposite to that of the
Gorgon’s head, which turned flesh into stone.
Did I pretend to describe to you the Venus, it would
only set your imagination at work to form ideas of
her figure; and your ideas would no more resemble
that figure, than the Portuguese face of Miss ——,
who has enchanted our knights, resembles the sweet
and graceful countenance of lady ——,
his former flame. The description of a face or
figure, is a needless thing, as it never conveys a
true idea; it only gratifies the imagination with
a fantastic one, until the real one is seen.
So, my dear, if you have a mind to form a true notion
of the divine forms and features of the Venus and
Antinous, come to Florence.