so far wandered from the discipline of the church of
England, as to have been last Sunday at the opera,
which was performed in the garden of the Favorita;
and I was so much pleased with it, I have not yet
repented my seeing it. Nothing of that kind ever
was more magnificent; and I can easily believe what
I am told, that the decorations and habits cost the
emperor thirty thousand pounds Sterling. The
stage was built over a very large canal, and, at the
beginning of the second act, divided into two parts,
discovering the water, on which there immediately
came, from different parts, two fleets of little gilded
vessels, that gave the representation of a naval fight.
It is not easy to imagine the beauty of this scene,
which I took particular notice of. But all the
rest were perfectly fine in their kind. The
story of the opera is the enchantment of Alcina, which
gives opportunities for great variety of machines,
and changes of the scenes, which are performed with
a surprising swiftness. The theatre is so large,
that it is hard to carry the eye to the end of it,
and the habits in the utmost magnificence, to the
number of one hundred and eight. No house could
hold such large decorations: but the ladies all
sitting in the open air, exposes them to great inconveniences;
for there is but one canopy for the imperial family;
and the first night it was represented, a shower of
rain happening, the opera was broke off, and the company
crowded away in such confusion, that I was almost
squeezed to death.—But if their operas
are thus delightful, their comedies are in as high
a degree ridiculous. They have but one play-house,
where I had the curiosity to go to a German comedy,
and was very glad it happened to be the story of Amphitrion
(sic). As that subject has been already handled
by a Latin, French, and English poet, I was curious
to see what an Austrian author would make of it.
I understand enough of that language to comprehend
the greatest part of it; and besides, I took with
me a lady, that had the goodness to explain to me every
word. The way is, to take a box, which holds
four, for yourself and company. The fixed price
is a gold ducat. I thought the house very low
and dark; but I confess, the comedy admirably recompensed
that defect. I never laughed so much in my life.
It began with Jupiter’s falling in love out
of a peep-hole in the clouds, and ended with the birth
of Hercules. But what was most pleasant, was
the use Jupiter made of his metamorphosis; for you
no sooner saw him under the figure of Amphitrion,
but, instead of flying to Alcmena, with the raptures
Mr Dryden puts into his mouth, he sends for Amphitrion’s
taylor, and cheats him of a laced coat, and his banker
of a bag of money, a Jew of a diamond ring, and bespeaks
a great supper in his name; and the greatest part
of the comedy turns upon poor Amphitrion’s being
tormented by these people for their debts. Mercury
uses Sofia in the same manner. But I could not
easily pardon the liberty the poet has taken of larding