expence they pleased. I look with great pleasure
on the statue of that hero, which is in the court
belonging to the house of duke Doria. This puts
me in mind of their palaces, which I can never describe
as I ought.—Is it not enough, that I say,
they are, most of them, the design of Palladio?
The street called Strada Nova, is perhaps the most
beautiful line of building in the world. I must
particularly mention the vast palaces of Durazzo, those
of the two Balbi, joined together by a magnificent
colonade (sic), that of the Imperiale at this village
of St Pierre d’Arena, and another of the Doria.
The perfection of architecture, and the utmost profusion
of rich furniture are to be seen here, disposed with
the most elegant taste, and lavish magnificence.
But I am charmed with nothing so much as the collection
of pictures by the pencils of Raphael, Paulo Veronese,
Titian, Caracci, Michael Angelo, Guido, and Corregio,
which two I mention last as my particular favourites.
I own, I can find no pleasure in objects of horror;
and, in my opinion, the more naturally a crucifix
is represented, the more disagreeable it is.
These, my beloved painters, shew nature, and shew
it in the most charming light. I was particularly
pleased with a Lucretia in the house of Balbi; the
expressive beauty of that face and bosom, gives all
the passion of pity and adoration, that could be raised
in the soul, by the finest artist on that subject.
A Cleopatra of the same hand, deserves to be mentioned;
and I should say more of her if Lucretia had not first
engaged my eyes.—Here are also some inestimable
ancient bustos (sic).—The church of St Lawrence
is built of black and white marble, where is kept
that famous plate of a single emerald, which is not
now permitted to be handled, since a plot, which,
they say, was discovered, to throw it on the pavement
and break it; a childish piece of malice, which they
ascribe to the king of Sicily, to be revenged for
their refusing to sell it to him. The church
of the annunciation is finely lined with marble; the
pillars are of red and white marble; that of St Ambrose
has been very much adorned by the Jesuits; but I confess,
all the churches appeared so mean to me, after that
of Sancta Sophia, I can hardly do them the honour
of writing down their names. But I hope you will
own, I have made good use of my time, in seeing so
much, since ’tis not many days that we have
been out of the quarantine, from which no body is
exempted coming from the Levant. Ours, indeed,
was very much shortened, and very agreeably passed
in Mrs D’Avenant’s company, in the village
of St Pierre d’Arena, about a mile from Genoa,
in a house built by Palladio, so well designed, and
so nobly proportioned, ’twas a pleasure to walk
in it. We were visited here only by a few English,
in the company of a noble Genoese; commissioned to
see we did not touch one another.—I shall
stay here some days longer, and could almost wish
it were for all my life; but mine, I fear, is not
destined to so much tranquillity.
I am, &c. &c.