to pull them down. Soon after day-break I arrived
at Tunis, a town fairly built of very white stone,
but quite without gardens, which, they say, were all
destroyed when the Turks first took it, none having
been planted since. The dry land gives a very
disagreeable prospect to the eye; and the want of shade
contributing to the natural heat of the climate, renders
it so excessive, that I have much ado to support it.
’Tis true, here is, every noon, the refreshment
of the sea-breeze, without which it would be impossible
to live; but no fresh water but what is preserved in
the cisterns of the rains that fall in the month of
September. The women of the town go veiled from
head to foot under a black crape, and being mixed with
a breed of renegadoes, are said to be many of them
fair and handsome. This city was besieged in
1270, by Lewis (sic) king of France, who died under
the walls of it, of a pestilential fever. After
his death, Philip, his son, and our prince Edward,
son of Henry III. raised the siege on honourable terms.
It remained under its natural African kings, till
betrayed into the hands of Barbarossa, admiral of
Solyman the Magnificent. The emperor Charles
V. expelled Barbarossa, but it was recovered by the
Turk, under the conduct of Sinan Bassa, in the reign
of Selim II. From that time till now, it has
remained tributary to the grand signior, governed
by a
bey, who suffers the name of subject to
the Turk, but has renounced the subjection, being
absolute, and very seldom paying any tribute.
The great city of Bagdat (sic) is, at this time,
in the same circumstances, and the grand signior connives
at the loss of these dominions, for fear of losing
even the titles of them.
I WENT very early yesterday morning (after one night’s
repose) to see the ruins of Carthage.—I
was, however, half broiled in the sun, and overjoyed
to be led into one of the subterranean apartments,
which they called, The stables of the elephants,
but which I cannot believe were ever designed for
that use. I found in them many broken pieces
of columns of fine marble, and some of porphyry.
I cannot think any body would take the insignificant
pains of carrying them thither, and I cannot imagine
such fine pillars were designed for the use of stables.
I am apt to believe they Were summer apartments under
their palaces, which the heat of the climate rendered
necessary. They are now used as granaries by
the country people. While I sat here, from the
town of Tents not far off, many of the women
flocked in to see me, and we were equally entertained
with viewing one another. Their posture in sitting,
the colour of their skin, their lank black hair falling
on each side their faces, their features, and the
shape of their limbs, differ so little from their
country-people the baboons, ’tis hard to fancy
them a distinct race; I could not help thinking there
had been some ancient alliances between them.